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Focus on Worcestershire

 




 

 

Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

This month we turn our attention to
Worcestershire in the Heart of England, to the western side of the Midlands. This fine county combines to great effect its splendid cathedral city with interesting market and riverside towns, and the wonderful rolling countryside of the Malvern Hills with the valleys of the Severn, Avon and Teme rivers. This is a county with a many a place and many a face from England’s long history - from the English Civil War to composer Edward Elgar, and from the Morgan sports car to Rowland Hill, inventor of the Penny Post.

Built on the banks of the River Severn, Worcester is at the county’s heart, famous for its sauce (which is still made here), for its visitor centre on Royal Worcester porcelain, for its impressive 11th century cathedral, for Thomas White’s ornate Guildhall and for the Museum of the Commandery. This fine building, which served as the Royalist HQ during the Battle of Worcester in 1651, now traces the city’s history through than 1,000 years. The Worcester & Birmingham Canal starts in the city too at the River Severn, before climbing the UK’s longest flight of navigable locks at Tardebigge. There are 30 locks and a climb of 66 metres in total!

The county has a number of fine towns meriting a visit. The Victorian spa town of Malvern, famous for its ancient hills, takes it name from the Celtic term for bare hill. It’s claimed you can see 15 counties from the Worcestershire Beacon on a clear day; this hill inspired Elgar to compose the Pomp & Circumstance March. In the town you’ll find an ancient priory with a collection of medieval tiles, the home of Morgan cars, an interesting town museum and plenty of ornate Victorian architecture. Droitwich is another Victorian spa town. Its name means place of salt, from the time when the Romans exported it in great quantity. It also has a number of fine medieval churches and half-timbered buildings. Pershore, on the banks of the River Avon, has the remains of a 7th century abbey, re-built during Norman times and partially demolished during the reign of Henry VIII. Bromsgrove is another popular destination for visitors, with its industrial heritage exhibited today in its museums. The Court Leet takes place too in midsummer – an event which involves testing the strength of ale!

Redditch is another town with a strong industrial past, known worldwide for its needle-making. Its heritage centre tells how it evolved from a small hamlet situated around the medieval Cistercian Abbey at Bordesley. The picturesque riverside Georgian town of Bewdley has an award-winning museum, plus Sir Thomas Telford’s famous bridge. Kidderminster is of course renowned for its carpet-making, which dates back to the 18th century. The Severn Valley steam railway heads north from here to Bridgnorth, offering 16 miles of fabulous scenery. The Georgian town of Stourport on Severn was once one of the Midlands’ busiest ports, thanks to the Staffordshire and Worcestershire Canal, which was built in the late 18th century. The honey-coloured Cotswold stone buildings of the picturesque town of Broadway stand at the foot of the Cotswold Hills, whilst Tenbury Wells, on the border with both Herefordshire and Shropshire, is known as the town in the orchard, due to its location in the Teme Valley. Here you’ll fine the ancient Teme Bridge, natural saline springs and an ornate pump room.

The county also boasts acres of fruit orchards, especially The Vale of Evesham, where much of the land was once owned by wealthy monasteries. Be sure not to miss the Spring Blossom Trail!
So, where in Worcestershire might you see ancient trees, ancient woodland and other fine treescapes?
Wyre Forest (SO7574) is a good place to start. Managed by the Forestry Commission, it’s one of the largest surviving areas of ancient semi-natural woodland in the UK. Its vast expanse – some 6,500 acres in total - is a relic of a historic wildwood which covered an area of the Severn Valley from Worcester to Bridgnorth. About half of the forest is now coniferous but at its heart is ancient oak woodland. It’s a designated NNR and (in part) a SSSI. Look for wild service trees, muntjac and fallow deer, parasol mushrooms, rare moths and hornets – the sheer brilliance of their yellow hue is a natural wonder! There’s a visitor centre at Callow Hill and an arboretum too. The forest is a particularly popular location for cyclists, and there are three waymarked walking trails, named buzzard, woodpecker and wren respectively. If you fancy something less strenuous, however, then the Severn Valley Railway passes through here, offering some of the finest scenery on any steam railway in the country.

The National Trust manages a number of fine properties in the county.
At Brockhampton (SO6854), you’ll find a 14th century moated manor house called Lower Brockhampton and 1,700 acres of traditional farmland, parkland and woodland. A timber-framed gatehouse and a ruined chapel add further interest. The walks through the park and through the ancient oak and beech woodland make this a truly wonderful place to visit. Look above the trees too for soaring buzzards and ravens. Croome Park (SO8744) near Worcester is one of the finest landscape parks in the UK; not surprising perhaps as this was the place where Capability Brown received his first major commission (from the 6th Earl of Coventry) and made his reputation. His ground-breaking (no pun intended!) landscape has been restored by the NT, thanks to a ten-year project, which has included planting some 10,000 trees and shrubs and dredging the serpentine lake. Again, the walks here are simply fantastic, crossing some 670 acres of beautiful parkland, pleasure grounds and lakeside gardens. Look in particular for some three dozen surviving ancient oak trees. Many of the park buildings were created by Robert Adam or by James Wyatt. The mansion, Croome Court, is still in private ownership. Hanbury Hall (SO9463) is a brick country house built in 1701 for a solicitor called Thomas Vernon. It’s particularly notable for its painted ceilings, staircase, orangery, icehouse, pavilions and working mushroom house! The house and its period 20-acre garden are set in around 400 acres of parkland, from where you get some excellent views of the surrounding countryside. There’s a circular park walk in what was once part of a deer-park within the ancient Forest of Feckenham. Look here for a small number of remaining ancient oaks and an impressive old cedar of Lebanon to the north of the garden.

Now, let’s look at the pick of the Woodland Trust’s properties in the county. Firstly, there’s the ancient semi-natural woodland at
Pepper Wood (SO9374), which is a designated SSSI. Like Hanbury Park, this was once part of the Forest of Feckenham, with records dating back to the 13th century. Coppicing was a feature for many centuries, but as with so many ancient woods, large scale felling took place in the 1940s. Keep a sharp eye open for the relatively rare large-leaved lime, as well as for wild service and crab apple trees. Visit in spring for carpets of bluebells and wood anemones, in the summer for brimstone and white admiral butterflies or in the autumn for a blaze of colour. Look too for thick spiked wood sedge, and if you’re quiet, you may catch a glimpse of the muntjac deer. Coppicing has been reintroduced here, and wood products are created and sold locally. Secondly, Uffmoor Wood (SO9581) on the edge of Halesowen also dates back to medieval times. It was managed for centuries as coppice-with-standards until the last century, when large areas were felled. A brush-making company took over the wood in 1978 and established new conifer and broad-leaved plantations. Look for bay willow and alder buckthorn and for ground flora like violet helleborine, creeping cinquefoil, marsh valerian, tufted vetch and monk’s-hood. Butterflies recorded here include the white letter hairstreak. The historic pond has been restored, and coppicing has been reintroduced. Finally, located near Kidderminster, Wassell Wood (SO7977) was once part of an estate owned by the Duke of Northumberland, John Dudley Viscount Lisle, who was executed for treason. It changed hands several times over the years, eventually passing to the family of the Earl of Dudley in the early 19th century. Dominated by oak over the centuries, sweet chestnut, sycamore and specimen species were planted extensively at that time. Despite a Tree Preservation Order, clear felling took place in the early 1980s, prior to the WT taking ownership. Fallow and muntjac deer can be seen here, and to the northern end you’ll also find a hillfort, believed to be medieval, which might well have been used by Henry IV after torching Worcester in 1405.

Next, let’s turn to the Worcestershire Wildlife Trust. The pick of its sites is undoubtedly
Piper’s Hill and Dodderhill Common (SO9565), also known as Hanbury Woods. This 38-acre designated SSSI has some of the oldest and largest trees in the county. Ancient beech and sweet chestnut pollards can be easily spotted, along with some huge oaks, which are believed to be more than 400 years old. Look too for bird’s-nest orchids, and be sure to visit in autumn for one of the finest collections of fungi around. More than 200 species have been recorded here, including chanterelles and beafsteaks. The ancient coppice with standards woodland at Grafton Wood (SO9755) is co-owned by the Butterfly Conservation Society. It’s especially noteworthy for the rare brown hairstreak. There are a number of huge, ancient oak and ash pollards, and a circle of coppiced small-leaved lime trees, which are believed to date back some 1,000 years. Keep an eye open for greater burnet saxifrage, violet helleborines and saw-wort. The Knapp and Papermill (SO7552) comprises 67 acres of orchards, meadows and ancient woodland. You’ll find wild service trees here, and the ground flora includes bluebells, wood anemones, marsh marigolds, toothwort and false oxlips. In summer look for butterflies including the holly blue, brown argus, white letter hairstreak and white admiral, and settle down by Leigh Brook – a designated SSSI – as this is a great place to spot a kingfisher! Alternatively visit in autumn for a spectacular array of colours in the trees and fungi on the ground.

Here’s a round-up of some more of the WWT’s superb woodland locations. Many are accessible by permit only, so please check before visiting.
Hanley Dingle (SO6866) comprises damp ancient woodland, which is especially good for large-leaved lime trees and for liverworts and mosses. Hunthouse Wood (SO7070) is ancient woodland of oak, ash and wych elm. Look too for some very large, old cherry trees, and for a good variety of fungi. Crews Hill Wood (SO7353) is ancient woodland with a good variety of trees including oak, ash, wild service, hornbeam and beech trees. Look out for some very old yew trees and small-leaved lime pollards too. It’s also a good place to see rare moths and an array of fungi, with several species of earth star. Ravenshill Wood (SO7453) was once part of an ancient forest. Sadly, it was clear-felled in 1929. Today you’ll find a small discovery centre and waymarked paths. Keep an eye open for herb paris, common centaury and broad-leaved helleborine. Knowles Coppice (SO7676) is at the heart of the Wyre Forest and incorporates an old wildflower meadow. The ancient oak and ash woodland at Aileshurst Coppice (SO7750) is a designated SSSI because of its rare yellow star of Bethlehem plants. Monkwood (SO8060) is ancient woodland, again jointly owned by the Butterfly Conservation Society. Three dozen species of butterfly and more than 500 species of moth have been recorded here. Very importantly, this is one of the few sites in the county where wood white butterflies can be seen. This wet woodland is also a good location for broad-leaved and purple helleborines, lily of the valley and ragged robin. In summer the ponds provide a great location to watch dragonflies hunting. Longdon Marsh (SO83) is another interesting site, with a splendid group of ancient oak trees. Chance Wood (SO8485) is an ornamental wood with some very large trees including oak, beech, hornbeam, sweet chestnuts and horse chestnuts. You may see dame’s violets and Italian lords and ladies in this woodland, and you’ll probably come across the pet cemetery, which has headstones dating back to the 19th century.

Chaddesley Wood (SO9173) is a large area of ancient oak woodland, once part of the Royal Forest of Feckenham and quite possibly the ‘wood of two leagues’ which is mentioned in the Domesday Book. Designated a NNR and a SSSI in part, it’s especially notable for the rare terrestrial caddis insect. You’ll find hornbeams, Midland hawthorns, wild service trees and small leaved limes here too. Tiddesley Wood (SO9246) is another large area of ancient woodland where you’ll also see wild service and small leaved lime trees. There are wild pears, plums and crab apples too. Look at ground level for herb paris and violet helleborine. Trench Wood (SO9258) is another large ancient woodland site, extending for a mile along a ridge top. The Butterfly Conservation Society is also involved in managing this coppice-with-standards oak woodland. Listen in summer for nightingales, and look for meadow saffron and greater butterfly orchids. Hornhill Wood (SO9558) is a fine example of woodland comprising hazel coppice and oak standards. The woods at Beaconwood and The Winsel (SO9775) are part of the Chadwich Estate. The Great Oak, thought to be more than 250 years old, was planted as a marker at the junction of three areas of woodland. Finally, Broadmoor Wood (SO9776), also part of the Chadwich Estate, is coppice-with-standards woodland and provides a good display of bluebells in late spring. The most notable standards are oaks, with some ash, birch and rowan. Look for opposite-leaved golden saxifrage and marsh marigolds too.

The county has some fine estates too.
Burford House (SO5868) was built in 1726 by the River Teme for William Bowles. It was soon sold to the Treasure family, which created the beautiful garden here and established a nursery specialising in clematis. To the east of the house you’ll fine some impressive large trees, including a very old yew. Kyre Park (SO6263) dates back to the Middle Ages, and the 13th century deer-park is still evident to the north-east of the house. The house was re-built in the 18th century for Sir Edmund Pytts. He was responsible for installing an expansive lawn and a serpentine lake. There’s lovely woodland to walk through here too, and an old fern-leafed beech adds some additional interest. Witley Court (SO7664) was once a fine country house, created by William Humble Ward, first Earl of Dudley, and renowned for its extravagant parties! Sadly, a massive fire in 1937 ravaged this 18th century house. English Heritage is responsible for the preservation of the ruins and gardens. The landscaped gardens were designed by W.A. Nesfield and are notable for their parterres and huge stone fountains. The woodland walks are well worth a visit, and keep an eye open for some unusual tree species. Arley House (SO7680) is noteworthy for its early 19th century arboretum. In 1907 some 300 species of trees were listed here. Eastgrove Cottage (SO7965) is a half-timbered 17th century house with a splendid cottage garden. Visit here if you enjoy exotic tree species!

Hartlebury Castle (SO8371) dates from the 14th century. Surrounding the castle you’ll see pleasure grounds and parkland, including a medieval deer-park. Look here for the three avenues – beech, horse chestnut and lime. Madresfield Court (SO8047) has been home to the Lygon family since the 15th century. The house has been rebuilt and altered on several occasions. The grounds include many specimen trees, plus avenues of cedars, oaks and poplars. A small number of ancient oaks and willows can be seen too from the public footpaths which cross the estate. Pirton Park (SO8746) was once part of the Croome Court estate. There was a fallow deer park here, which was landscaped by Capability Brown whilst he worked on Croome. Look on the ridge to the south-west of Pirton Pool for cedars and limes planted in the mid 18th century. The Georgian, Palladian-style, mansion at Spetchley Park (SO8953) was built of Bath stone in 1811, but the estate, owned by the Berkeley family, dates back many centuries. The original moated house was burnt down just before the Battle of Worcester and was replaced for a while by a house converted from the old stables. The estate, in time merged with the family’s estate at Berkeley Castle in Gloucestershire, was once renowned for its avenues of elm trees but these were ravaged by Dutch elm disease in the 1970s. The impressive parkland remains in tact, however, together with its herds of red and fallow deer. Over what was once a Tudor moat, you’ll find not just the parkland, but woodland too, stretching to the west and south beyond the garden pool. The gardens are a popular visitor attraction too and are especially noteworthy for the gnarled old cork oak in one of its lawns.

Hagley Hall (SO9180) was built in the mid 18th century for Sir George Lyttleton, the first Lord Lyttleton. The parkland dates back to the Middle Ages, and the estate also includes woods on the slopes. Overbury House (SO9537), built in the 18th century, has formal gardens and a deer-park, where you can see a number of specimen trees. Kemerton Park (SO9639) is a private estate owned by the Darby family, incorporating the wood pasture at Bredon Hill, a designated NNR. There are some ancient ash pollards, field maples and a few oaks here, plus some very old willow trees; in fact many of the estate’s trees are more than 300 years old, descendants from the original wildwood which once stood here. It’s also a great site for rare invertebrates, such as the violet click beetle. The estate includes the ancient semi-natural pasture woodland at Aldwick Wood, which dates from the 16th century or earlier, and the Ash Bed, where the ash coppice dates back at least 300 years. Elmley Castle (SO9841) is a pretty village on the slopes of Bredon Hill. The Beauchamp family had a fortified Norman stronghold here from the 11th century. It was ruined, re-built and ruined again, such that little remained by the late 16th century. A small number of ancient oaks remain though in the parkland – the former deer-park.

Here are some privately owned gardens of interest. The small garden at Barnard’s Green House in Malvern has a large cedar tree, plus a number of other specimen trees. The 15th century moated grange at
Birtsmorton Court is a popular venue for functions. The grounds are renowned for its 13th century Westminster Pool, a lake apparently the size of the nave of the Abbey at Westminster Cathedral; and the ancient Wolsey yew tree, under which, it’s said, the chaplain of Birtsmorton, Sir Thomas Wolsey, both sat and slept. Orleton House, a 19th century listed building near Stanford Bridge, has gardens, paddocks and woodland. Here you can see some fine oaks and an impressive copper beech. Shuttiford Cottage near Storridge includes gardens, a small deer-park and 20 acres of ancient woodland. Wild service trees are found here.
 
Finally, make sure you pay a visit to some of the county’s excellent country parks.
St Wulstan’s (SO7841) has an unusual mix of exotic and native trees, including some old oak pollards and very large cedars. American red oaks are notable too, perhaps connected to the fact that American servicemen were hospitalised here during World War II. Kingsford Forest Park (SO8282) has woods, heaths, sandy tracks, ridges, outcrops of red sandstone, waymarked walks and some terrific views. This oak woodland was again once part of the Royal Forest of Feckenham, and timber from here was once used to build ships for the Royal Navy. At Worcester Woods Country Park in Worcester, you’ll find some lovely way-marked trails through more than 110 acres of ancient woodland and wildflower meadow. This location includes the ancient semi-natural woodland at Nunnery Wood (SO8654), a designated LNR. Finally, Waseley Hills Country Park (SO9778) comprises open hills and woodland, rising to almost 1,000 feet and offering more spectacular views. Look here for gnarled ancient hawthorns forming wildlife-rich hedgerows.

If you know of other ancient trees in Worcestershire or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on North Yorkshire, we’d love to hear from you! Please
e-mail us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference. We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please e-mail them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!

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Phil Marshall. Woodland Trust Volunteer of the Year 2004
Each month Phil Marshall (Woodland Trust, Volunteer of the Year 2004) writes entertainingly about sites to visit in a different county

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