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Focus on Wiltshire





 

  Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

This month we turn our attention to Wiltshire in southern England, home to world heritage sites, ancient ridgeway walks, historic towns and charming villages, magnificent gardens, river-meadows and canals. This is a county which has more than just a hint of a bygone age. There’s an air of mystery and mysticism too, and not just at the prehistoric sites of monolithic Stonehenge, Avebury, the Sanctuary and the West Kennet Long Barrow. There’s also the imposing sight of white horses dominating many of the chalk downs, not to mention the more modern phenomenon of unexplained crop circles!

Salisbury is one of the Wiltshire’s best known destinations. Its wonderful cathedral, with 400-foot spire and grassy close, stands at the centre, whilst the ancient hill-fort of Old Sarum lies at its edge. Other popular towns include the picturesque Saxon settlement of Bradford upon Avon, Wilton with its remarkably ornate church, Devizes with its medieval town trail and the impressive Marlborough. Many of Wiltshire’s villages are quite delightful too, with village greens and thatched roofs aplenty. The National Trust village of Lacock turns the clock back to 17th and 18th century England, whilst the Vale of Pewsey, the Nadder Valley and the Woodford Valley - with its line of idyllic riverside villages - are amongst those areas that are well worth a visit.

Often favoured by Constable in his paintings, the landscape here is a rich blend of rolling hills and panoramic plains with chalk down-land, broad valleys and water meadows. Rivers and canals, estates and gardens, and ancient woodland and parkland enhance the splendour of this countryside still further. Much of the county is designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, due in part to the unrivalled variety of flora and fauna to be found in its chalk grassland.

So, where might you go in this splendid county to find some ancient trees or ancient woodland sites?

Longleat (ST8143) near Warminster may instantly make you think of wildlife safaris and theme parks but don’t disregard this oasis of natural beauty. The house, seat of the Marquess of Bath, is set in more than 900 acres of Capability Brown landscaped parkland, with a further 8,000 acres of woodlands, lakes and farmland. Look out for some fine oak pollards here in particular.

The renowned 18th century landscaper Capability Brown was also responsible for the flowing mix of woodlands, lawns and lakes at Bowood House (ST9770) near Calne, and this is another good location to entertain younger members of the family, whilst enjoying some fabulous treescapes.

Probably the largest collection of ancient trees in Wiltshire is to be found in the Savernake Forest (SU2266) between Marlborough and Hungerford. This woodland covers some 4,500 acres and is certainly more than 1,000 years old, having been mentioned in a royal Saxon charter in 934AD. Whilst the Earl of Cardigan and the other estate trustees own the forest – in fact it’s the only privately owned forest in Britain - the Forestry Commission manages much of it. Extensive areas are open to the public on a permissive basis. Here, some 2,600 ancient oaks and 2,400 ancient beeches remain, together with more than a hundred ancient sweet chestnut trees. The splendid avenues of tall 200 year-old beech trees provide a wonderful sight, especially in autumn. In spring, hundreds of bluebells carpet parts of the forest floor. As well as being in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, most of Savernake Forest is a registered SSSI - a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Though this high scientific status is primarily due to its rare lichens and fungi, this site is also a haven for a variety of wildlife including all of our species of deer and some less common birds such as Hawfinches, Nightjars, Crossbills and Nightingales.

Wiltshire provides one of England’s most precious horticultural gems – Stourhead (ST7834) at Stourton near Warminster. Owned by the National Trust, this magnificent garden was created by Henry Hoare between 1741 and 1780. The Palladian mansion was built in the 1720s and was home to the Hoare family, owners of Britain’s only independent private bank. The mature woodland is quite magnificent, including several ancient sweet chestnuts and an extensive collection of exotic trees. Much of the estate woodland and down-land is managed for nature conservation, and two Iron Age hill-forts, Whitesheet Hill and Park Hill Camp, provide additional historical interest.

The Wiltshire Wildlife Trust looks after some fine examples of ancient woodland. Near Devizes you’ll find Peppercombe Wood (SU0357), standing by a picturesque stream. Situated on the edge of Swindon lies a fine bluebell wood, Hagbourne Copse (SU1082), which was originally part of the Lydiard Park Estate and a source of local timber for over 400 years. At the foot of a steep chalk down-land slope near Salisbury stands some impressive beech woodland known as The Devenish Reserve (SU1234). In a wood providing spectacular views over the Woodford Valley, the ancient beech trees here are slowly dying, but support some rare beetles. Records show that Clouts Wood (SU1380) near Wroughton has existed for over 1,000 years. Once dominated by Wych Elm, today it comprises mainly ash and oak and is another great place to see bluebells in the spring. Green Lane Wood (ST8857) dates back to Domesday times and exhibits many indicators of ancient woodland including Solomon’s Seal and the Greater Butterfly Orchid. Close the Dorset border, near Shaftesbury, you’ll find the wooded slopes of Oyster’s Coppice (ST8925) with wild daffodils growing amongst the oak, ash and alder. Lastly, but by no means least, there’s the ancient oak woodland of Vincient’s Wood (ST8973) near Chippenham, where early purple orchids may be found amongst the varied flora and fauna.

A black poplar pollard can be seen at Tanners Wood (ST0337), one of a number of ancient woodland sites owned by the Woodland Trust. There are three woods near Westbury, Clanger Wood, Picket Wood and Round Wood (ST8754), covering around 133 acres and dating back to the Domesday Book. They are well-known locally for their butterfly populations, with almost 40 different species recorded there. This ancient semi-natural woodland is listed in the Nature Conservancy Council Inventory of Ancient Woodland, and the same applies to almost 120 acres at Colerne Park and Monks Wood (ST8372), located at Colerne near Chippenham. This woodland is also designated as being part of both a Site of Specific Scientific Interest (SSSI) and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Wild pear can be found here, and near the woods to the north-west there are three mounds of historical interest - Bronze Age round barrows – together with the popular Fosse Way.

Other items of interest to lovers of ancient trees include the alders at Spye Park (ST9567), the oaks at Flisteridge Wood (ST9991) and at Donhead Hall Park (ST9023), and the beeches at Groveley Wood (SU0534). Over a hundred specimens are to be found at Whiteparish Common (SU2522) and as well as oaks, examples of both field maple and ash are located at Tollard Green (ST9316).


If you know of other ancient trees in Wiltshire or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on Derbyshire, we’d love to hear from you! Please email us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference.

We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please email them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!
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Phil Marshall. Woodland Trust Volunteer of the Year 2004
Each month Phil Marshall (Woodland Trust, Volunteer of the Year 2004) writes entertainingly about sites to visit in a different county

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