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Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting
some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of
general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust
properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and
as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times,
it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local
Tourist Information Office before making a visit.
This month we turn our attention to Surrey, in the south of
England and to the south of England’s capital city. Not
surprisingly, this county is prime commuter-belt for London. It’s
also, however, a county of quite typical, quite beautiful, English
countryside. As you travel through the county, you’ll find a
wonderful array of picturesque villages, Saxon churches, historic
market towns, spas, gardens, parks and woodland. In fact, this is
one the most wooded counties in England. The dense woodlands are
complemented by rolling hills and grassy downlands. Be sure to
drive, walk, cycle or take the explorer bus through the Surrey Hills
AONB, and enjoy the quite breathtaking vistas from its highest
points. This protected landscape was designated in 1958 and has
equal status to a national park. The River Thames too winds across
the county, providing gentle, tranquil walking and cycling, as well
as other leisure opportunities.
Leatherhead and Dorking are the main two towns in the Surrey Hills,
with the former standing at its gateway and the latter at its
centre. They’re linked by the Mole Gap Trail, meandering alongside
the River Mole and past the grand estates of Cherkley and Norbury.
You’ll find a literary walk too, testimony to the fact that this
area has inspired many writers, poets and even composers. Ralph
Vaughan Williams lived in Dorking and was first to conduct at the
Leith Music Festival, an event which still takes place today.
Beneath the streets and buildings of the historic town are Dorking
Caves, an awesome labyrinth cut into the sandy bedrock.
Lewis Carroll is linked with Guildford, having stayed with his
sisters at the Chestnuts and having been laid to rest in Mount
Cemetery. Over the ages this bustling town has been a popular
sojourn for weary travellers, heading to and from London and the
southern docks; and today the county town is still a very popular
place for visitors. Located where the River Wey wends through the
North Downs, it blends old and new. The cobbled high street and
narrow lanes contrast with the 20th century cathedral, and the
Yvonne Arnaud theatre is a gem of West End quality. William the
Conqueror’s castle, overlooking the town, is in ruins but its superb
gardens make the walk well worthwhile. For a walk with a difference
though, try the eerie ghost tour!
If you enjoy historic buildings and places, then Spelthorne is
actually a logical place to start, as occupation here is believed to
date back to the Middle Stone Age. Saxon and medieval buildings and
artefacts can be found dotted throughout the county, and there’s a
wide variety of stately homes, churches and castles to visit. Here
are a few suggested places of interest: the magnificent palace at
Hampton Court; Kingston where England’s kings were once crowned; the
ancient buildings at Godalming, home to the world’s first electric
street lights; the ruins of Waverley Abbey, first established in the
12th century; and the Georgian architecture and castle at Farnham.
Incidentally, you can also visit at least 45 museums across the
county if you so wish!
The county is well known too for Richmond and its splendid park;
Wimbledon, home to tennis; Kew and Wisley for their fascinating
gardens; Epsom, home to the Derby; Haslemere, with the breathtaking
Devil’s Punch Bowl; and Hindhead, some 850 feet above sea level and
nicknamed Little Switzerland because of its fine views.
So, where will we find Surrey’s finest ancient trees, ancient
woodland and treescapes?
Well, quite probably the finest location is the ancient woodland
pasture found at Ashtead Common (TQ1759), a designated NNR
which is managed by The Corporation of London. There are more than
2,300 oak pollards on this wooded common, many of which are 400 or
so years old. It’s known that this area has been wooded since 1600
but it’s believed that woodland here could pre-date the Romans. This
500-acre area of open public space forms part of a larger area
including Epsom Common. It’s part of a SSSI too, because of its
importance for breeding warblers. As well as woodland, there’s
grassland, wetland, springs, ponds and even a well. Look in
particular for greater yellow rattle, butcher’s broom, giant fescue
and southern marsh orchids; and watch out for purple emperor and
purple hairstreak butterflies. Renowned for its insect population,
there’s over 1000 species of beetle here, and it’s a great location
for a fungi foray. You’ll also find two scheduled ancient monuments
– a triangular earthwork and a Roman villa.
The aforementioned Epsom Common, managed by the local
authority, is a designated SSSI and LNR. The 435 acres comprise
woodland, grassland, ponds and heathland remnants. It too is an
excellent site for insects and butterflies. It’s notable for its
flowering plants, for example southern marsh orchids, and you may
spot a roe deer or two. This was part of the wildwood which once
covered England. Today, you’ll find around 50 veteran oak pollards
on the common.
Two estates in the county are also particularly noteworthy. Firstly,
Farnham Park (SU8448), now managed by the local authority,
was a deer-park in the Middle Ages. Known as Little or New Park,
this 320-acre parkland was created by the Bishop of Winchester, who
resided in the 12th century Farnham Castle. Look in the parkland for
an avenue of trees, stretching for over a kilometre, and for a
number of ancient oak and beech trees. If visiting in winter, you
may see vast flocks of redwings and fieldfares, whilst the streams
and ponds add to the diversity of flora and fauna to be found here.
Secondly, Gatton Park (TQ2652), home to the Royal Alexandra &
Albert School, has a history dating back to the Domesday Book. This
250-acre estate included a deer-park in medieval times. In the 18th
century Capability Brown was called in to replace the formal gardens
with a more natural setting, befitting of the North Downs. In
typical fashion, he opened up long-reaching views over beautiful
parkland and introduced lakes and woodland. In Victorian times Sir
Jeremiah Colman created a series of gardens within the parkland,
four of which remain today – the old world garden, the rock and
water garden, the walled garden and the Japanese garden, which was
featured on Channel 4’ s series Lost Gardens.
Now, the National Trust manages a number of interesting estates in
the county. Hatchlands (TQ0651) is an 18th century mansion,
which was built for Admiral Boscawen. It contains what are probably
the earliest examples of Robert Adam decorations, including nautical
motifs on the ceilings. Additionally you’ll find the Cobbe
collection of musical instruments, many associated with famous
composers like Bach, Chopin and Elgar. The surrounding 430-acre park
was designed by Humphrey Repton and provides several pleasant
waymarked walks. Look in the parkland for the surviving ancient oak
trees, and visit in spring for a splendid display of bluebells in
the wood. Nearby Clandon (TQ0451) is an early 18th century
house, with a two-storey marble hall and fine collections of
furniture, porcelain, Italian figures, tapestries and textiles. The
Queen’s Royal Surrey Regiment Museum is also based here, and
together with the fine parkland, you’ll find interesting gardens.
You’ll find a Regency house at Polesden Lacey (TQ1352), set
in a fabulous North Downs setting. The hall, which was extensively
restyled in the early 20th century, contains fine collections of
paintings, silver, furniture and porcelain. It’s also notable as
King George VI and Queen Elizabeth spent their honeymoon here in
1923. Be sure to take in the landscaped walks in grounds, which
cover some 1,400 acres.
Here’s a number of other NT properties in the county which are
worthy of mention. Bookham Common (TQ1257) is a fine example
of common wood pasture, and a few ancient oaks, together with a
number of mature oaks, can be found here. Box Hill (TQ1751)
is a superb area of woodland and open chalk downland. This has long
been a destination for day-trippers from London, and today a million
people a year visit. You’ll be treated to some splendid walks and
views over the South Downs. Look out for a small number of ancient
trees in the old wood pasture, plus a larger number of mature
beeches, oaks and yew trees in the high forest. The landscape
gardens at Claremont (TQ1263) were first begun in around
1715. Its creators included Charles Bridgeman, Capability Brown,
William Kent and Sir John Vanbrugh. The house is used today by
Claremont Fancourt School. Look in the grounds for a small number of
ancient oaks. Ham House (TQ1773), on the banks of the Thames,
is a 17th century house with fine formal gardens. Leith Hill
(TQ1343) provides the highest point in south-east England, and
consequently unrivalled views across 13 counties, toward London to
the north and the English Channel to the south. This site comprises
woodland, parkland, farmland and heathland, with an 18th century
Gothic tower. Visit in late spring for a good showing of bluebells
and rhododendrons, which were apparently planted by Charles Darwin’s
sister, Caroline. As you enjoy the circular trails, look out for the
few ancient oaks which remain here. Finally, you’ll find a small
number of ancient oaks at Outwood Common (TQ3246) and some
very large sweet chestnuts at Witley Common (SU9340), whilst
at the peaceful hillside woodland of Winkworth Arboretum (SU9941)
you’ll discover over 1,000 different trees and shrubs, including
many rare species.
The Woodland Trust also manages some splendid locations in Surrey.
Durfold Wood (SU9832), a designated SSSI, is also known as
the Johnson Wax Wood, after the company which helped to protect it.
Keep an eye out in this woodland for deer. Great Ridings Wood
(TQ1053) covers some 70 acres and is designated ancient
semi-natural woodland. Hammond’s Copse (TQ2144) is another
fine oak wood, part designated ancient semi-natural woodland. Oak
from here was once used to build ships, as well as to supply local
industries. This too has another name – the Prestige Wood - relating
to a major benefactor, Prestige Hotels. Glover’s Wood (TQ2240),
in the Green Belt of London is another SSSI and is thought to date
back to original wildwood. Wood from here was used to make charcoal
for the iron industry. Look for the old field banks in this ghyll
woodland, so-called because of the stream which runs through it.
Edolph’s Copse (TQ2342), a designated LNR not far from Gatwick
Airport in the Surrey Weald, comprises ancient woodland, secondary
woodland and meadows. It was again used to source the charcoal
industry. Look in the oldest sections for hummocks, raised ground
possibly dating back to the Ice Age. Here you’ll find old coppice
stools of ash, hornbeam and small-leaved lime. Look too for wild
service trees and midland hawthorns, and for the ponds which provide
extra interest.
Chiphouse Wood (TQ2657), which is in part designated as
ancient semi-natural woodland, is located in a chalk valley not far
from the M25. To the western side you’ll find high forest and a good
variety of trees, whilst to the eastern side there’s mature
woodland. Marden Park (TQ3654), including Great Church Wood,
lies within the Surrey Hills AONB and forms part of a SSSI. In the
17th century it was owned by Sir Robert Clayton, treasurer to King
Charles II. In the last century owners included the renowned
conductor Sir Adrian Boult. The stripe-winged grasshopper and Roman
snail are to be found within the SSSI, whilst the ancient
semi-natural woodland has excellent ground flora including bluebells
and the locally rare herb paris. Great Earl’s Wood (TQ4048)
is also designated ancient semi-natural woodland within the Surrey
Hills AONB. The northern end is high forest of mature oak and ash,
whilst sweet chestnut and hornbeam coppice dominate the southern
end. The nearby wooded common at Staffhurst Wood (TQ4148) is
another designated SSSI. During World War II the army used this land
to store ammunition and many of the tracks were paved. Much of the
woodland is oak, but hornbeam and hazel coppice is prevalent too.
Look for yellow pimpernel and thin-spiked wood-sedge at ground
level, and for a plethora of moths. Six very unusual species have
been recorded here.
Now, let’s turn to the Surrey Wildlife Trust, which also manages
some superb woodland sites. Moor Park (SU8645) by the River
Wey is deep-water alder carr and a designated SSSI. Access is only
possible via a small boardwalk, as it’s a potentially dangerous
location. The swamp has been here for at least a couple of hundred
years and maybe longer. Not surprisingly, waterfowl, including the
elusive water rail, are attracted here. Look too for marsh violets,
water dropwort and opposite-leaved golden saxifrage. Fir Tree
Copse (TQ0235) is part of the Chiddingfold Forest SSSI and one
of the county’s best sites for rare moths, lichen and fungi. Ground
flora includes enchanter’s nightshade, wood speedwell, lily of the
valley and wild daffodils. Whilst this is mainly broadleaved
woodland, its name comes from a clump of very tall Scots pine,
probably planted to supply railway sleepers. Cucknell’s Wood
(TQ0443) consists of alder carr and oak woodland. Visit in
spring for a good display of bluebells. Look too for pignut, bugle
and yellow pimpernel, for silver fritillaries, and for a wide
variety of insects in the damp area known locally as Snake’s Alley.
The Forest (TQ0955) is mixed woodland, which was called The
Thornleys back in the Middle Ages. This is believed to be a
reference to the blackthorn and hawthorn bushes which grew in
abundance. Today it’s important for its amphibians, including the
great crested newt. The western part is good for bluebells, and if
lucky, you may spot roe or muntjac deer.
Wallis Wood (TQ1238) is ancient semi-natural woodland, with
hazel coppice and oak standards. Vann Lake (TQ1539) is an
8-acre lake and dam, surrounded by ancient woodland. Alder trees
dominate the wetter areas, whilst oak is prevalent in the drier
areas. Visit in summer to see butterflies like the white admiral,
purple emperor, silver-washed fritillary and purple hairstreak.
Dormice live here too, and around 800 species of fungus have been
recorded. Nower Wood (TQ1954) is ancient oak woodland, dating
back to the Domesday Book. It’s geologically significant and
designated as a Site of Nature Conservation Importance. Graeme
Hendrey Wood (TQ3450) is mixed deciduous woodland located in an
old sand quarry on the Lower Greensand Ridge. The wood’s name comes
from the site’s former owner. Look here in particular for bird’s
nest orchids, broad-leaved helleborine orchids and winter green, and
for mosses, ferns and liverworts. Hedgecourt (TQ3540) is the
name of an ancient mill pond, which today spans some 800 metres,
making it the largest stretch of natural open water in the east of
the county. Willow and alder carr woodland is dominant, and the wet
conditions favour plants like water parsnip, yellow loosestrife,
water mint, marsh-horsetail, meadow thistle and the quaintly named
touch-me-not balsam. It’s also a good place to look for dragonflies.
Finally, here’s a few other interesting locations in the county: the
wooded park and ancient hillfort site at St Ann’s Hill near
Chertsey; the woodland garden within Windsor Great Park at
Savill Garden; the 18th century Painshill Park near
Cobham with its towering cedars; the mansion and superb parkland at
Loseley Park near Guildford, with a mulberry tree reputedly
planted by Elizabeth I; Walton Poor House near Ranmore with
its beautiful mature trees; the fine oaks and woodland garden at
Timber Hill near Chobham; the mature trees in the garden at
Hookwood Farmhouse near West Horsley; and the ancient mulberry
tree at Dunsborough Park near Ripley. Lastly, enjoy a visit
to the 60-acre gardens at Hampton Court Palace and be sure to
go to Addlestone, with its historic oak tree, which is believed to
date back possibly 1,000 years.
If you know of other ancient trees in Surrey or if you wish to
suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on
Sussex, we’d love to hear from you! Please e-mail us, providing as
much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance
Survey map reference. We’re also very keen to build up a library of
photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help?
If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits,
please e-mail them to us, remembering to provide location details
for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible.
We’d love to include them in a future article!
If you know of other ancient trees in Surrey or if you wish to
suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on
Sussex, we’d love to hear from you! Please
e-mail
us, providing as much information as possible and preferably
including an Ordnance Survey map reference.
We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient
trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to
share your treescapes and tree portraits, please
email them
to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with
an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include
them in a future article! |
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