Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

This month we turn our attention to North Yorkshire, home to some of the UK’s most wonderful countryside, the maritime heritage of a breathtaking coastline, historic cities and towns, pretty villages and a wide variety of engaging tourist attractions.

York is at the heart of North Yorkshire and is the county city of Yorkshire – often referred to as ‘God’s own country’ because of the vastness of its natural beauty. Some 2,000 years of history can be experienced here. Its Minster, the largest medieval gothic cathedral in Northern Europe, includes stained glass dating back some 800 years. You’ll also find ancient city walls, historic buildings, numerous museums and narrow shopping streets like the famous Shambles. Family attractions are plentiful, for example the Jorvik Centre and the Dungeons, and there are fine walks along the River Ouse too. Elsewhere, the elegant town of Harrogate is best known for its Victorian spa and Turkish baths, for its parks and gardens, and for Betty’s tearoom! Ripon has an imposing cathedral, Boroughbridge the legendary Devil’s Arrows, Richmond a fine castle and Knaresborough a medieval riverside shrine and cave, named after St Robert.

The coastline of North Yorkshire has retained its popularity, with a steady stream of people heading east every bank holiday and summer weekend. The busy Victorian resorts of Scarborough and Filey offer rocky headlands, fine beaches, promenades, parks, gardens and entertainment a-plenty. Further up the coast, there’s Whitby, voted the UK’s favourite seaside resort. Its charm derives from a combination of its maritime heritage; the ruins of the 13th century abbey which towers over the town; its connections to characters like Captain Cook and Dracula; its traditional crafts like the famous Whitby jet jewellery; and its olde worlde seaside feel. Nearby you’ll find numerous quaint fishing villages, like Staithes and Robin Hood’s Bay.

As you head away from the coast, within minutes you find yourself in the heart of the North York Moors, a National Park of rolling heather moorland and picturesque hamlets. Don’t be fooled though into thinking that it’s all open moorland – over a fifth of the park is wooded! This is ‘Heartbeat’ land and fans of the TV programme head here in droves, especially to Goathland, which also provided the railway station for Harry Potter’s Hogwart’s Express. Be sure to take a drive over the moors or alternatively to take the steam train for an 18-mile relaxing ride through the spectacular scenery. The moors stretch to the market towns of Pickering and Helmsley. For the best views, Sutton Bank’s the place to go – on a clear day, they’re awesome!

Then of course, there’s the world-renowned Yorkshire Dales. The countryside comprises some 1,600 square miles of crags, peaks, moors, fields and dry-stone walls, encompassing numerous picturesque dales including Swaledale, Nidderdale, Wensleydale, Ribblesdale and Wharfedale. Campers, walkers, pony trekkers, cyclists, pot-holers and tourists of all kinds visit this National Park each year in their thousands. Popular places to visit include towns and villages like Grassington, Skipton, Settle, Clapham and Ingleton, and natural attractions like Mother Shipton’s Cave, Brimham Rocks, How Stean Gorge and, of course, the beautiful Aysgarth Falls. Head to Thirsk to find the adopted home of James Herriott; Hawes to see cheese and rope-making; or Masham if you like a good beer! Or, take the restored Settle to Carlisle railway line which traverses some of this fine countryside, crossing the famous Ribblehead viaduct.

So, where in North Yorkshire might you see ancient trees, ancient woodland and other fine treescapes?

The National Trust manages some very interesting properties. Fountains Abbey (SE2768) is the pick of the bunch. This 790-acre estate, co-managed by English Heritage, is a World Heritage Site and incorporates the ruin of a 12th century Cistercian abbey, a monastic watermill, an Elizabethan mansion, a Georgian water garden (Studley Royal), a Victorian church and a medieval deer-park. The abbey remains are the largest in Europe; the flour mill is one of the oldest in Europe; and William and John Aislabe’s 18th century landscape garden is probably the finest such example in the world. There are many splendid walks across the estate, which is also home to a herd of some 500 deer. Keep a sharp eye out too for a remarkably large wild cherry tree and for a small number of ancient oak and small-leaved lime trees. The NT mansion at Beningbrough Hall (SE5158) was built in 1716 and is best known for its collection of National Portrait Gallery paintings and its fine gardens. There are some pleasant walks through the gardens and the wooded areas, and along the nearby river Ouse. Look on the estate, which incorporates land which was once part of the medieval Forest of Galtres, for a number of ancient oak, lime and ash trees. Along the river you’ll also find some fine old oak and beech trees.

The NT has a number nature reserves in the county too. The 6,000-acre estate at Upper Wharfedale (SD9376) is a fine example of upland Yorkshire Dales countryside. Stretching from Kettlewell to Cray, this area comprises picturesque farmland, flower-rich meadows and woodland, and includes hamlets like Buckden, Yockenthwaite and Beckermonds. You’ll see numerous old trees, especially oaks, across this fabulous landscape, their trunks and limbs gnarled and misshapen, and look in particular at Buckden Park (SD9477) for a number of surviving ancient ash pollards. Bridestones (SE8790), located inside the North York Moors National Park, comprises over 1,000 acres of Jurassic rock formations, farmland, moorland and woodland. The ancient woodland within this designated SSSI is thought to date back to the last Ice Age. There’s a fine nature trail here, which meanders through a variety of habitats, and there’s a great view from the top of Blakey Topping. Access is via a forest drive managed by Forest Enterprise. Near Richmond by the River Swale, you’ll find the picturesque Hudswell Woods, plus Calfhall, Round Howe and Billybank Woods (NZ1509), whilst the oak woodland at Newton Wood (NZ5712) stands close to Roseberry Topping near the boundary with Cleveland.

North Yorkshire is also home to numerous noteworthy privately owned estates. The ruins of the 12th century priory at Bolton Abbey (SE0753) stand by the River Wharfe in a wonderfully picturesque setting. The huge estate, owned by the family of the Duke of Devonshire since 1750, combines heather moorland, woodland and riverside grassland. The ancient Forest of Barden once covered part of this area. Today, you’ll find an occasional ancient oak or holly tree, as you wander along some of the 80 miles of footpaths which criss-cross the Wharfedale landscape. This includes the network of paths created by the 6th Duke in 1810, which head through Strid Wood to the spectacular Strid waters. Be sure to visit this lovely woodland, which has a visitor centre and nature trails. Thorp Perrow (SE2585), home to the Ropner family, dates back to the very beginning of the 18th century but the estate is much, much older. Spring Wood is undoubtedly ancient woodland, and you’ll see some very old trees here, including oaks. Today, this estate is renowned for its arboretum, which was begun in the 1930s. Ripley Castle (SE2860) has been home to the Ingilby family since the early 14th century. The castle contains a fine collection of armour from the Civil War, and the impressive gatehouse dates back to 1450. There are superb gardens too, with the English National Hyacinth Collection, and the estate includes pleasure grounds, lakes, waterfalls and a deer-park with a herd of fallow deer. Look here for a number of surviving ancient trees, mainly oaks. Newby Hall (SE3467) near Ripon, home to the Compton family, was designed in the late 17th century under Christopher Wren’s guidance and boasts splendid Robert Adam interiors. It includes notable collections of tapestries, statues, Chippendale furniture and chamber pots! There are some 25 acres of award-winning gardens, created in the early 20th century and incorporating a tropical garden, a water garden, a rose garden and a national collection of dogwoods. There’s plenty of woodland areas too, including a historic woodland discovery walk too, which also takes in a sculpture park.

Sutton Park (SE5864), home to the Sheffield family, was built in the first half of the 18th century by Thomas Atkinson and contains period furniture, paintings and porcelain. Outside you’ll find some fabulous parkland and gardens, an Edwardian fernery and a walled pond garden. The parkland to the south was designed by Adam Mickle, whilst to the west of the house you’ll find some fine trees on the lawn, including an old hornbeam and a very large Corsican pine. Look too for several impressive cedars of Lebanon, and don’t miss out on the woodland walks. Duncombe Park (SE6083) is an 18th century baroque house, built by William Wakefield for Thomas Duncombe. It was home to the Earls of Feversham for several generations. A school for girls was located here after World War I, but the family returned in the late 20th century to restore the 300-acre estate, including the gardens and the wonderful parkland. Note the very old yew walk and the views over the wooded valley below. This area was once part of the medieval Rydale Forest and today you’ll still find several hundred ancient trees on the estate, including oaks, ash, lime and beech, as well as the ruins of a 13th century castle. Castle Howard (SE7170) is a quite superb 18th century house, the Howard family seat which Sir John Vanbrugh began building for Charles Howard, the 3rd Earl of Carlisle, in 1699. It’s located between two lakes and it contains extensive collections. There are some 1,000 acres of grounds, including woodland and gardens, with temples, statues and fountains a-plenty, many of which were created by Vanbrugh. As you enter the estate, you’re treated to more than three miles of beech and lime avenues. Look near the car-park too for a small number of surviving ancient oaks. You’ll see impressive formal gardens near the house, and there’s ancient woodland at Ray Wood to the east of it. This was landscaped into a woodland garden in the early 18th century.

Constable Burton Hall in Wensleydale, home to the Wyvill family, is a Georgian house which was built in 1768 by John Carr for Sir Marmaduke Wyvill. The gardens, renowned for collections of tulips and maples, include some fine trees and woodland walks. Kiplin Hall near Scorton is a Jacobean country house dating from 1620. It was built by George Calvert, Secretary of State to James I and founder of Maryland in the USA, and includes fine collections of paintings and furniture. Outside there are interesting gardens, a woodland walk and a children’s trail. Rudding Park near Harrogate is now a hotel. The original house was bought by Lord Littleborough in 1788, and he commissioned Repton to improve the landscaped grounds. The present house was completed in the early 19th century. The estate includes gardens and woodland. There are some fine old trees here, notably oaks, together with a small collection of unusual trees and a pleasant walk to the nearby village of Follifoot, which was once the setting for a well-known children’s series. Scampston Hall is renowned for its spectacular 4.5 acre garden created by Piet Oudolf. There’s fine parkland too, and you’ll see some superb mature trees here. Finally, there’s Sheriff Hutton Park (SE6665), which is home to a small number of remaining ancient trees.

Next, here are three of the best woodland sites managed by the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust. Firstly, Garbutt Wood (SE5083) stands within the North York Moors National Park above Gormire Lake and below the imposing Whitestone Cliff and Sutton Bank. The woodland consists of mature oaks, with birch, rowan, holly and hazel. On the slopes below the cliff, you can see the remnants of the huge elms that once stood here, before being ravaged by Dutch elm disease. Visit in late spring for a great display of bluebells and wood sorrel. Secondly, within the Yorkshire Dales National Park, Grass Wood (SD9865) near Grassington is a fine example of ash woodland, with hazel coppice, growing on limestone terraces. The site of a Brigantian fort and the site of an Iron Age settlement are both evident here. Numerous indicators of ancient woodland are present too, including lily of the valley and yellow pimpernel. It’s a great place for a fungi foray, and the keen-eyed may spot a roe deer. Thirdly, the valley of Brockadale (SE4917) on the southern edge of the county combines ancient woodland, Magnesian limestone grasslands and floodplain meadows with the River Went. The semi-natural ancient woodland hugs the steep sides of the valley, with sycamore, ash and hazel coppice prominent. Look here for water figwort, water avens, common rock-rose, hound’s tongue and stinking hellebore.

The YWT manages a number of other splendid reserves. Globe Flower Wood (SD8766) near Malham is a small walled reserve, which takes its name from the flowers which appear in quantity each June. It’s a superb site for wild flowers - look for melancholy thistles and wood cranesbills too. There’s a small area of marsh meadow, and the woodland consists of a variety of willow, plus sycamore and birch. Ashberry (SE5684) near Rievaulx is one of the finest examples of ancient woodland in Yorkshire, complemented by mires and grasslands. Oak, birch and ash dominate the woodland, which was regularly coppiced until the turn of the 20th century. This site is geologically important and good for seeing both deer and ground flora, such as bird’s eye primrose, globeflower, marsh hawk’s-beard and marsh lousewort. Askham Bog (SE5748), the YWT’s oldest reserve, was donated by York’s famous chocolate makers, Sir Francis Terry and Arnold Rowntree. It was once a mire and now combines fen and woodland carr to fine effect. Great fen sedge, gingerbread sedge, water violets and bog myrtle grow here. The imaginatively named Far Wood, Middle Wood and Near Wood make up the site, together with Gilsons Bog, and it’s an excellent place to see roe deer. Moorlands (SE5858) is a Victorian forest garden in the Vale of York, containing many specimen trees including a wide variety of conifers and deciduous trees. It’s popular visitor spot in season for its flowering azalea and rhododendron shrubs.

Skipwith Common (SE6437) is a superb example of ancient lowland heathland, where an aerodrome was built during World War II. This large reserve consists of open heath, woodland, ponds and disused runways! Look here for pillwort, marsh gentian, meadow thistle and cotton grass. Strensall Common (SE6461) is another lowland heath in the Vale of York and provides some lovely walks through oak and birch woodland. North Cliffe Wood (SE8637) in the Plain of York comprises heathland and ancient woodland with birch, oaks, alders and rowans dominant. Visit for a fine display of bluebells in late spring and fungi in autumn. Chafer Wood (SE8983) covers the valley sides of Netherby Dale, running from the Vale of Pickering toward the North York Moors. The woodland comprises mature ash, wild cherry and sycamore. The site incorporates ancient earthworks and King Alfred’s Cairn, constructed 200 years ago to mark a Neolithic burial site. Lastly, Little Beck Wood (NZ8704) is high forest oak woodland on a steep hillside between Little Beck and Swindseydale Beck in the North York Moors National Park. There are many mature sessile oaks here, and wych elms are common. Look at ground level for moschatel and for both alternate-leaved and opposite-leaved golden saxifrage.

Now, let’s turn to The Woodland Trust. The ancient broadleaved woodland at Lower Grass Wood (SD9865) is located by the River Wharfe near Grassington. Oak, ash and sycamore are the dominant species, with some elm trees. Two large holes are evident, which are thought to be rings from ancient huts or hearths, used to burn quick-lime. Look for dippers on the river, and if you fancy a longer walk, you can cross into the adjacent Grass Wood (YWT) or join the Dales Way long distance path which runs from Leeds to Bowness. Skipton Woods (SD9952) is an expansive area of ancient semi-natural woodland above Eller Beck and adjacent to the grounds of Skipton Castle. The woods have been part of the castle estate for centuries, and the watercourses which run through the woodland provided power for the local saw-mill and woollen mills. As well as oak, ash, hazel and wild cherry trees, you’ll find a number of hornbeams here. Hackfall Wood (SE2377) is ancient semi-natural woodland located on the north-west slope of the River Ure gorge. It was bought in 1730 by John Aislabe of the adjoining Studley Royal estate, and his son William was responsible for the forty man-made features which remain in the wood, including the ruins of four grottos which are now listed buildings. It’s known that this site has been wooded since at least 1600AD. Today the prominent species are oak on the upper slopes, ash lower down and alder by the river and streams. Look for spindle trees too. Visit this designated SSSI in spring for a good display of bluebells and ramsons. Bilton Beck & Rudding Bottoms (SE3058) near Scotton is in part ancient woodland, but today consists predominantly of larch, beech and birch trees. Take a relaxing walk by the river or for something a little more strenuous, head up to the hillfort from where the views are quite breathtaking! Another excellent spot if you enjoy a good view is the spectacular Nidd Gorge (SE3257). The ancient semi-natural woodland here is a designated SSSI and offers an experience not to be missed.

The WT is responsible for several ancient semi-natural woodland locations within the North York Moors National Park. Scar and Castlebeck Woods (SE9497) is a designated SSSI, with hazel coppice and oak, ash and elm trees prevalent. A wide variety of mosses, liverworts and ferns, plus rare beetles, have been recorded here. There are two acres of memorial woodland here too, dedicated by the Human BSE Foundation. Also worth a visit are Brow Wood (SE8289) and Cow Close (NZ7014), both designated SSSI, Stray Head Banks (NZ8705), Harry’s Folly (NZ9301) and Hone Wood (NZ9301), incorporating Oxbank Woods. Finally, here’s a selection of other ancient woodland sites managed by the WT: Thornton Glen (SD6975) and Twisleton Glen (SD7074) near Ingleton, which form part of the popular waterfalls walk there; Cleatop Wood (SD8161) incorporating Stubbing Wood, Scaleber Wood (SD8462) and Thwaitestones (SD8999) within the Yorkshire Dales National Park; Preston Spring Wood (SE0691); Gillbeck Farm Wood (SE1463) within the Nidderdale AONB; and Stables Wood (SE7486).

Forest Enterprise is responsible for the huge swathes of modern coniferous plantations, which dominate parts of the county, especially inland from the coast and within the North York Moors National Park. Dalby Forest (SE8587) near Thornton-le-Dale combines wooded valleys with upland plateau and includes a visitor centre, a 9-mile forest drive and ancient earthworks. Look here for crossbills in the conifers. You’ll also find broadleaved species in this vast expanse of woodland. Newtondale Forest, located in a spectacular valley, is best accessed from the forest drive or via North York Moors Railway stations like Levisham (SE8189) and Newtondale Halt (SE8394). Sneaton Forest (NZ8902) incorporates old broadleaved woodland as well as conifers. Here you’ll find an old hollowed-out boulder called The Hermitage and an eye-catching 10-metre high waterfall called Falling Foss (SE8804). There’s a lovely woodland walk along the May Beck and Little Beck streams, with an abundance of wild flowers in spring. More or less adjacent to Dalby Forest is another extensive area of woodland, Langdale Forest (SE9292), which included a military camp in World War II and is a good place for roe deer and nightjars. The woodland and heathland at Broxa Forest (SE9694) is used extensively for woodland research and there are a number of unusual trees here. The area includes the strangely named wood Turkey Carpet. Roe deer are common in both Harwood Dale Forest and Coate Moor Wood (NZ1159), which is near Great Ayton in the heart of Captain Cook country. Nightjars and adders are to be found here too. Guisborough Forest (NZ5815) on the north-eastern boundary of the county incorporates rocky outcrops, great views and a visitor centre.

Elsewhere in the county, Forest Enterprise’s Stainburn Forest (SE2352) near Harrogate is another good place to see roe deer and nightjars, as well as butterflies and dragonflies; Kilburn Wood (SE5181) is mixed woodland situated on the cliffs of Sutton Bank, Roulston Scar and White Horse Bank; Newgate Bank (SE5689) is located near Helmsley; and Wheldrake Woods (SE6647) is known locally for its fallow deer and for its pipistrelle and brown long-eared bat populations.

Now, let’s highlight three other great treescapes. The spectacular Forge Valley (SE9885) near East Ayton is thought to have been created during the last Ice Age. The valley sides of this designated NNR and SSSI are clothed in mixed deciduous woodland. The River Derwent meanders through alder groves, whilst higher up oak dominates. Scarwell Wood is known for its petrifying springs. Raincliffe Woods (SE9988) is a SSSI, comprising some 370 acres of woodland, which is managed by the local authority. Mulgrave Woods (NZ8612) comprises some 2,000 acres of mixed woodland. Owned by the Marquis of Normanby, the estate includes a Victorian wild garden, an arboretum and two castles. Repton created many of the features within the wood in the late 18th century. You’ll also get great views of Whitby and out to sea!

Finally, if you enjoy gardens, a visit to the Royal Horticulture Society’s 58-acre Harlow Carr (SE2854) is a must. The society’s fourth and most northerly location not only offers superb mixed borders and planted areas illustrating 200 years of gardening history, but also wildflower meadow and woodland walks. The south-western corner is place to look for ancient woodland, a remnant of the Knaresborough Forest, and you’ll find some impressive, old beech and oak trees.

If you know of other ancient trees in North Yorkshire or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on East Yorkshire, we’d love to hear from you! Please e-mail us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference. We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please e-mail them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!