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Thursford Wood.
Photo:Nick Coleman
Weston Park.
Photo:Nick Coleman
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Each month we turn our focus upon a different
county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other
places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust
properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access
may be limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check
with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before
making a visit.
This month we look to the far east of England and visit Norfolk in
East Anglia. This is a county often associated with a flat landscape
and with boating, but it has much more to offer with a fine historic
capital city, delightful market towns, traditional fishing ports,
popular coastal resorts, quaint villages and wonderfully contrasting
countryside. East Anglia also has more windmills than any other
region in England, and there’s plenty still standing in Norfolk,
several fully working.
The county capital, Norwich, is a mix of medieval city and busy 21st
century metropolis. The cathedral, castle, city walls, churches,
half-timbered houses and a network of winding streets all date from
the Middle Ages. By contrast, the architecturally stunning Forum is
one of the city’s newest buildings, housing a visitor centre and the
city library behind its expansive glass facade.
The Norfolk coastline offers cliffs, salt marshes, dunes and miles
of sandy beaches. Cromer, Wells-next-the-Sea, Blakeney and
Sheringham to the north are ever popular, whilst Great Yarmouth on
the eastern tip of the Broads provides boating and seaside
activities and amenities.
Undoubtedly one of Britain’s most beautiful regions, Broadland is a
joy to behold. To the west lies a gently rolling landscape with
unspoilt villages, impressive parish churches and important ancient
natural woodland. The Broads to the east provide some of our finest
wetland, combining reed beds, marshes, open water, fields and woods.
It’s a wildlife haven and a magnet for walkers, birdwatchers,
conservationists, anglers and cyclists. There’s over 120 miles of
waterways here too, frequented by boats and yachts seemingly of
every shape and size. By comparison, South Norfolk and the
enchanting Waveney Valley offer a more tranquil, unspoilt, less
hurried lifestyle, with charming villages, ancient churches,
traditional market towns like Wymondham, Loddon and Diss, and
countryside that extends as far as the eye can see.
Those who dismiss the relatively flat contours of Norfolk in favour
of hills and mountains should look again, for once you have viewed
the breathtaking, historic beauty of this region for what it really
is, you realise that you’re trying to compare the landscape
equivalent of apples with oranges! It provides and preserves a vital
part of our natural heritage, rich in rare fauna and flora, and for
us in particular, it offers some fine examples of the ancient
woodland, which have all but disappeared in other parts of the
United Kingdom.
Any visit to East Anglia should include at least one visit to a
nature reserve managed by the Norfolk Wildlife Trust. There’s plenty
from which to choose, offering a variety of natural habitats and
wildlife interest. For ancient trees, none is better than Thursford
Wood (TF979333), where the oaks are amongst the oldest in the
country, some quite possibly 500 years old or more. Situated just
over 3 miles north-east of Fakenham, these 25 acres of ancient
woodland pasture and ponds provide a veritable wildlife haven, with
around 70 ancient pollarded oaks providing homes for an array of
ferns, fungi, mosses and lichens. The presence of bluebells is often
considered as an indicator of ancient woodland, and in May this site
has an abundance of them. The largest remaining ancient woodland in
Norfolk, however, is Foxley Wood (TG049229) near Foxley village,
some 15 miles north-west of Norwich. Listed in the Domesday Book,
today this wood covers over 300 acres and includes several rare
trees, including wild service, small-leaved lime and midland
hawthorn, as well as fine examples of oak, field maple and birch. A
visit here is likely to be enriched by its variety of wild flowers,
including bluebells and orchids, and by large numbers of butterflies
during the summer months. Other ancient woodland sites worth
considering include the small but colourful Honeypot Wood
(TF934143), just to the west of East Dereham, with oaks and field
maple; Ashwellthorpe Lower Wood (TM143978), a short distance
south-east from Wymondham and home to White Admiral butterflies, as
well as hornbeams, ash and oaks; and Wayland Wood (TL924996), just
south of Watton, which is a rather impenetrable wildwood containing
oak, ash and bird cherry and which is listed in the Domesday Book
and widely held to be the original setting for the Babes in the Wood
story!
The National Trust provides three sites of great interest in
Norfolk. Firstly, just over a mile to the north-west of Aylsham
stands Blickling Hall (TG178286), an early 17th century Jacobean
house set in beautiful and extensive parkland. Whilst the house is
known for its remarkable 123-foot long gallery with impressive
ceiling, its superb library of 12,000 books and tales of the
meandering ghosts of Anne Boleyn and Sir John Fastolfe
(Shakespeare’s inspiration for Falstaff), just the many miles of
woodland and lakeside walks are worth a visit. The parkland, some
213 acres, was landscaped in the 18th century, but actually
pre-dates 1600 and boasts fine specimens of oak in particular, plus
beech and sweet chestnut, within its Great Wood. Secondly, there’s
Felbrigg Hall (TG193394), around 2 miles south-west of Cromer, which
is another fine example of a 17th century house with splendid
woodland and lakeside walks. Whilst the gardens host the national
collection of Naked Ladies (Colchicum), the park is renowned for its
magnificent and aged trees, notably around 200 beeches, as well as
sweet chestnuts and oaks. The 500 acres of woodland offer waymarked
trails, including an interesting and educational Family Woodland
Trail. Sheringham Hall (TG135420) is third on the list, located
around 2 miles south-west of Sheringham and set in parkland designed
in 1812 by Humphrey Repton, who first coined the phrase “landscape
gardening”. Whilst the hall offers spectacular views of both coast
and countryside from its viewing towers, the landscape design -
believed to be Repton’s own favourite from his 200 or so creations -
flows from garden to park to wild countryside. Leaving aside the
imported rhododendron and azalea collections, with which Repton
created his colourful woodland garden, take time to seek out the
ancient ash and oaks, and to admire the many other species here,
including some wonderful beech and sweet chestnut trees.
Similarly, for those who enjoy combining a visit to a majestic
stately home with an opportunity to view and appreciate some
marvellous ancient trees, then Holkham Hall (TF892438), situated two
miles west of Wells –next-the sea, comes highly recommended. Home to
the Earl and Countess of Leicester, this Palladian Mansion is set
amongst 25,000 acres of agricultural and 3,000 acres of parkland
estate, accommodating around 600 fallow deer. Amongst the
attractions are a famous pottery and a National Nature Reserve,
incorporating extensive salt marshes. The vast 18th century house
was effectively built to hold the massive collection of works of art
belonging to the Coke family, which had long resided at Holkham
estate. Capability Brown landscaped the park, created the mile-long
lake and planted thousands of ilex (holly trees). Landscape
architects Repton and Nesfield also played their parts in the
parkland’s development, and it’s said that Thomas William Coke was
responsible for the planting of a million trees at Holkham! Sadly
though, the woodland has changed greatly over the last century.
Another splendid example of 18th century Palladian architecture is
Houghton Hall, situated off the A148 ten miles west of Fakenham.
Constructed for Sir Robert Walpole, the first prime minister of
England, and now owned by the Marquess of Cholmondeley, it’s set
amongst lawns close to the site of a deserted village, it’s
surrounded by 4,500 acres of ancient parkland and it borders Her
Majesty the Queen’s Sandringham Estate. Sir Robert had very
ambitious plans for the park, planning a system of plantations that
would have measured almost 12 miles round. How far he actually got
is not clear today. A large herd of rare white fallow deer inhabits
the park, whilst 20,000 model soldiers reside in the Cholmondeley
Soldier Museum! In the 1720s, Sir Robert’s brother Horatio engaged
the services of Thomas Ripley to design the hall and grounds at
Wolterton Park (TG165317) near Aylsham. Sweet chestnut trees survive
from this period, and lime and London plane trees from the early
19th century also remain. Fine examples of oak and beech can also be
seen in this 74-acre parkland.
One of the most important ancient tree sites in Norfolk is Kimberley
Hall (TG0804), with its 18th century Capability Brown landscaped
deer park, lake and woodland, covering some 600-plus acres. Over 300
ancient oak pollards remain here, together with field maples, two
fine specimens of alder and one noteworthy old ash tree.
The Woodland Trust has a number of properties in Norfolk, which
merit a visit. Firstly, there’s Reffley Wood, east of Kings Lynn
(TF657223), comprising around 130 acres of ancient woodland and
designated by the Countryside Agency as an Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty. Whilst the site is dominated by conifers such as
Corsican Pines, Douglas Firs and Scots Pines, veteran oaks - once
marking a parish boundary - survive at the north-eastern edge.
Restoration work is underway to restore broad-leaved woodland, and
ancient woodland indicators such as bluebells and wild garlic are
thriving. Tyrrels Wood (TM205896), a mile west of Hardwick, is an
ancient woodland site, possibly dating back to the Ice Age, and is
designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Bluebells are in
evidence here, though for a quite splendid display, a visit in May
to Sisland Carr (TM345993) is highly recommended.
Finally, here are a few more of Norfolk’s most notable ancient tree
sites. Weston Park, approached from either the A47 or A1067, is an
18-hole golf club set in 18th century parkland and mature woodland,
providing some fine examples of ancient oaks and beeches. Oaks are
also prominent at Lord Walsingham’s Merton Park (TL9097), whilst
Melton Constable Park (TG0232), formerly home to the Astley family
and Lord Hastings, is an ancient deer-park with several noteworthy
trees. Holt Hall is an elegant Victorian mansion, now used as a
field study centre, which is set in 35 acres of gardens, lakes and
ancient oak woodland, while the small parish of Bayfield, some two
miles from Holt, not only houses Britain’s largest wildlife
gardening and conservation centre but also retains almost 100
ancient oaks on the Bayfield Estate.
If you know of other ancient trees in Norfolk or if you wish to
suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on
Cumbria, we’d love to hear from you! Please e-email us, providing as
much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance
Survey map reference.
We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees
and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your
treescapes and tree portraits, please
email them
to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an
Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a
future article! |
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