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Focus on Leicestershire





 

  Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

This month we turn our attention to Leicestershire, tucked away in the East Midlands, a county of quintessential English villages and historic market towns, with a landscape varying from the ancient Charnwood Forest to the delightful open uplands of High Leicestershire. Renowned for the popularity of its food produce - notably cheeses, pork pies, cakes and most recently crisps - this county offers plenty of interest to visitors and to nature-lovers, including birdwatchers and walkers – and that’s not an intentional reference to one of Britain’s largest producers of snack foods!

The historic city of Leicester stands at its heart of course, with Roman ruins in Castle Park, everything from dinosaur skeletons to Egyptian mummies and German Expressionist paintings in New Walk Museum, and rockets and satellites at the award-winning National Space Museum. This is also a place which prides itself on its ethnic diversity, with a colourful Caribbean Festival and reputedly the largest Diwali (Festival of Light) outside India.

Market towns abound with some unusual points of interest. Market Harborough is a rare example of a planned town from the Middle Ages, being created in the 12th century to generate local trade. Melton Mowbray, the only Leicestershire market listed in the Domesday survey, is famed for its Stilton cheese, pork pies and rich cake, and it has the nearby Rutland Water providing a magnet for birdwatchers and the Twin Lakes Park offering hours of family fun. Loughborough is best known for its bells, with no fewer than 47 (weighing between 20lbs and 4 tons) located in a 150-foot tower. The belfry was modelled on a medieval one located in Moulins, France. The site of a castle, a manor house, a 70-foot monument and a number of half-timbered buildings provide extra interest to the historic town of Ashby-de-la-Zouch, whilst Hinckley has long been the centre of our hosiery industry.

The Great Union Canal, with its ten Foxton Locks, and the steam-powered Great Central Railway dissect the county, offering an insight into travel from days gone by. Railway pioneer George Stephenson was responsible for the Leicester & Swannington line and opened Snibston Colliery, which has been transformed into Snibston Discovery Park, near Coalville. Elsewhere, historic battlefields and castles contrast with the excitement of the natural world, offered vividly by Conkers, which is located at the heart of the National Forest.

Now, let’s take a look at some of the top locations for ancient trees and terrific treescapes in the county of Leicestershire...

A good place to start is Bradgate Park (SK5211) in Newton Linford, part of the Charnwood Forest and the county’s largest and most popular country park. This 1,100-acre medieval deer park, now owned by the county council, includes areas of heath, bracken, rocky outcrops and small woods, as well as a stretch of the River Lin. If you look carefully as you wander across the parkland, you’ll spot a small number of ancient oaks, and you may well see at least some of the 500 species of beetle recorded here too! Some 300 fallow and red deer still roam the grounds as well, but only ruins remain of Bradgate House, which was built by Sir Thomas Grey in the late 15th century and was once home to Lady Jane Grey. She was Queen of England for just 9 days following the death of Edward VI, then she was accused of treason and promptly beheaded! Another point of interest is the curious folly of Old John, standing high on a ridge. This is a well known county landmark, named after an old retainer who apparently died in a tragic accident.

Some fine examples of ancient oak trees, together with a very large cherry tree, are to be found at Belvoir Castle (SK8133), which has been the ancestral home of the Duke and Duchess of Rutland for 1,000 years. The castle, which was rebuilt in the early 19th century, having been ravaged by wars and fire, occupies a commanding position, with superb views across the Vale of Belvoir. It houses the Queen’s Royal Lancers Museum, and the restored Duchess’ Spring Gardens which are set in nearby woodland, are certainly well worth a visit.

Not too far away is Croxton Park (SK8127) at Croxton Kerrial, where again a small number of ancient oaks remain. The ruins of an abbey dating from the 12th century lie in the park, which was used as a race course until 1914. In the village is the only remaining example of a smock mill in Leicestershire, together with a water spout, part of an old water scheme using a spring from a nearby hill.

The 800-plus acres of parkland at Castle Donington known as Donington Park (SK4126) are situated where the three counties of Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire meet. The site is, of course, best known for its international Grand Prix motor racing circuit. Leaving aside its commercial aspects, this location is of great importance to our natural heritage. Oak woodland dates back here to medieval times, to the 13th century, and fine examples of ancient oak, lime, sycamore and hawthorn trees are still present.

Whatton Park (SK4924) near Long Whatton has numerous mature parkland trees and is home to around a dozen ancient oaks. Laid out in the early 19th century, the parkland is more or less rectangular, with permanent pasture to the east of the house, woodland to the south-east and arable farmland to the north and south. The gardens also date from the early 1800s, with the Chinese Garden, walled kitchen garden and arboretum being notable features. The house had to be rebuilt in the late 19th century – another victim of fire - and remains in private ownership.

The Leicestershire and Rutland Wildlife Trust manages the largest amount of ancient woodland in the area and has many sites which are well worth a look. Cloud Wood (SK4121) near Breedon-on-the-Hill is part of a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest). More than 220 species of flowering plants and ferns have been recorded here, including violet helleborine, bee and bird’s nest orchids. Dating back to medieval times, Charley Woods (SK4714) near Copt Oak is divided into two ancient woods, plus the planted field between them. Burrow Wood dates from the 1500s and is dominated by oak, together with ash, sycamore and some particularly large holly trees. Visit in spring for a fine show of bluebells. Records on Cat Hill Woods, or the wood of the wildcats, date back to 1260. Oak dominates again, this time with sweet chestnut as well as sycamore.

The county’s wildlife trust also manages Ulverscroft Nature Reserve (SK4911), part of the ancient Charnwood Forest, for the National Trust. This location is especially worthy of a visit to check out the display of bluebells in late spring. Launde Woods (SK7803) between Launde and Loddingham comprise Launde Big Wood, which is located high on a hilltop, and Launde Park Wood, which stands on the site of a medieval deer park. Both possess massive boundary earthworks and huge coppice stools dating back several centuries. These are amongst the largest ancient woods in the East Midlands and boast a rich diversity of fauna and ground flora. Believed to date back thousands of years, Priors Coppice (SK8305) near Braunston is ancient ash-maple and ash-wych elm woodland and is registered as a SSSI. It is believed to have been used by local communities as a source of timber for many centuries, and giant coppice stools – some five metres across – remain today. Some 230 species of flowering plants and ferns have been recorded here, including wood forget-me-nots, together with the speckled bush cricket, more than 200 types of moth and at least 70 different kinds of birds. Lastly, there’s Great Merrible Wood (SP8396) near Uppingham in the Eye Brook Valley, which is again part of a SSSI. The origins of this wood can only be traced back to the early 19th century but signs of ridge and furrow cultivation suggest parts of the wood have been here much longer. Ash, oak, hazel and field maple are prominent today.

As always, the Woodland Trust manages several noteworthy woodland locations, and the following are well worth a visit: Willesley Woodland (SK3314) which stands in the National Forest near Ashby-de-la-Zouch; Burroughs Wood (SK4906) near Ratby, which has in part ancient origins; Martin’s Wood (SK5015) near Woodhouse Eaves, which is amongst the Midland’s highest woodland and lies within the ancient Charnwood Forest; and Martinshaw Wood (SK5106), which is located between Ratby and Groby and used to be part of a medieval deer park.

Finally, here are a few other treescapes worth checking out: the Iron Age hill fort of Burrough Hill near Melton Mowbray with woodland trails and fine views; Sarah’s Wood (SK3115) which is designed by and for the less-abled and stands close to the impressive National Forest and Conkers exhibition centres; Willesley New Woods (SK3215) in the National Forest near Ashby-de-la-Zouch; New Lount Nature Reserve (SK3918) near Shepshed, which encompasses fragments of ancient woodland and has been previously used as both a colliery and a tip; Bagworth Heath Woods (SK4506), a 75-hectare reclaimed colliery site between Bagworth and Thornton; The Outwoods (SK5116) near Loughborough which was once part of the Charnwood Forest dating back to 500AD and is a SSSI; Beacon Hill Country Park (SK5214) near Loughborough with 240 acres of undulating heathland, woodland and meadows and splendid views of the county from its summit; Swithland Wood (SK5311) in the Charnwood Forest which offers ancient oaks, carpets of bluebells and views of Loughborough; and Jubilee Wood near Loughborough with its rocky outcrops and woodland walks.

If you know of other ancient trees in Leicestershire or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on Northamptonshire, we’d love to hear from you! Please email us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference.

We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please email them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!
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Phil Marshall. Woodland Trust Volunteer of the Year 2004
Each month Phil Marshall (Woodland Trust, Volunteer of the Year 2004) writes entertainingly about sites to visit in a different county

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