Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

This month we turn our attention to Hampshire, in the far south of England. There’s some quite breathtakingly beautiful countryside and coastline to be found here. Rich in woodland, thanks mainly to the New Forest region, you’ll find plenty to interest you here. Whilst this county does have a number of sprawling urban and industrial towns, linked by busy motorways and trunk roads, it won’t take you long to look beyond them to the gems that lie within or nearby.

The cathedral city of Winchester is especially worth a visit, and the historic past of Southampton provides much more interest than just its metropolitan shopping centres and busy harbour ports. The market towns and country villages are, however, the places to seek out hidden treasures. If you enjoy military memorabilia, then Farnborough and Aldershot are good places to go. Farnborough Abbey provides additional interest, as Napoleon III and his family are buried here. Alton was once a Saxon settlement and the setting for a famous civil war battle. Various artefacts are on display at the Curtis Museum, and you’ll find an 11th century church and a steam railway too. Incidentally, the house where Jane Austen wrote and revised her novels over an eight-year period is in nearby Chawton. Romsey – the gateway to the New Forest – has pretty medieval streets, a Norman abbey and an interesting heritage centre. The Willis and Milestones museums in Basingstoke provide a glimpse into the town’s history, whilst the ruins at nearby Basing House date back to the civil war. Odiham goes back to Norman times, and today you’ll see some fine medieval and Georgian buildings. Visit Andover for its narrow Saxon walkways and its poetry in motion trail, and look in the ancient market town of Petersfield for a fine statue of King William III on horseback. Finally, there’s the early 19th century silk mill at Whitchurch, which is a now working museum complete with an operational water wheel.

Hampshire’s attractive villages include Hook, where relics from the stone age have been discovered; Selbourne, inextricably linked with the 18th century literary naturalist Gilbert White; Liss with its Riverside Railway Walk; Horndean, renowned for its traditional ale brewing; Wherwell with its thatched and timber cottages; Chilbolton, known to birdwatchers and botanists for the haven its common provides to wildlife; Kingsclere, frequented by royalty since Saxon times and the area in which Watership Down was located; and Grayshott, considered by the Victorians as having air as pure as in the Alps.

Many visitors head to Beaulieu – not just because it’s in the heart of the New Forest. Home to the Montague family since the 16th century, Palace House was in fact once the gatehouse to Beaulieu Abbey. This Cistercian abbey, built in the 13th century, was destroyed during the reign of Henry VIII but a number of its buildings survived and a well worth a visit. The estate also houses a National Motor Museum today, and the numerous rides are popular with children.

The New Forest’s also the area in which you’ll find Fordingham with the seven arches of its medieval stone bridge; Lyndhurst, where the real Alice in Wonderland is buried; Ringwood, with a charter dating back to 1226; Brockenhurst where many of the forest’s walks and cycle trails begin; Eling with its working tide mill; Minstead where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle is buried; and Lymington with its busy quay and marina.

So, let’s turn now to Hampshire’s ancient trees, ancient woodland and stunning treescapes.

Not surprisingly, there’s no better place to start than the New Forest. Today, the Forestry Commission’s in charge; no doubt you’ll come across one of its New Forest Keepers at some point during your visit. This was, however, once a Royal playground set aside for hunting deer. William the Conqueror came across this area some 900 years ago and commandeered it. Interestingly, the woodland is probably larger today than in his time, but the hazy, open glades where he gleefully spotted the wild deer all those years ago still remain. There are perhaps 50 surviving ancient trees here, all of which are oak, but to these you can add a further 250,000 or so veteran trees, largely of beech and oak! Deep in the wooded areas, under the canopies of the huge oaks, you may still see deer – and yes, the famous ponies are here too, grazing freely as they have done for many centuries. Over 400 Commoners still turn their pigs, cattle, ponies and donkeys out onto the heaths to graze, and Agisters check on the welfare of the 5,000 animals here. Keepers, Agisters, Commoners and Verderers – whose court still meets in Lyndhurst 10 times a year – are ancient titles, part of a bygone farming system.

The National Trust manages a number of interesting properties too. Mottisfont Abbey (SU3227) is as well known for its gardens as for its buildings. Built in the 12th or 13th century as an Augustinian Priory, the house is, however, quite magnificent, with a super drawing room decorated by Rex Whistler. The garden houses a national collection of old fashioned roses, and the extensive grounds contain a spring – the font. On the sweeping lawns, you’ll find some splendid ancient trees; look in particular for some noteworthy sweet chestnut and oak trees. Similarly, Hinton Ampner (SU5927) has renowned gardens. This location was the personal inspiration of the last Lord Sherborne, Ralph Dutton. The house here contains a fine collection of Italian paintings and Regency furniture, whilst the grounds contrast gardens full of colour and scent with far-reaching views over the Hampshire landscape. Look for some very old trees, including a few ancient oaks. The Vyne (SU6356) near Sherborne St John dates back to the 16th century. This impressive house contains treasures collected over three centuries by the same family, and is surrounded by a large country park with woods, wetlands, meadows, a lake and gardens. There’s also a Tudor chapel with some quite remarkable Renaissance stained glass. Watch out for the remaining ancient oaks as you stroll around these magnificent grounds, and don’t miss out on the living sculpture walk and a family woodpecker trail! Selborne Common (SU7333) is common pasture land, and here you’ll see several ancient beech pollards. Lastly, there’s the historic house at Uppark near Petersfield, which contains late Georgian interiors, a famous doll’s house, and collections of paintings, ceramics and textiles. Outside, you’ll surely enjoy the Regency garden with terrific views to the sea and some fine mature trees and shrubs.

The Woodland Trust also has some fine locations in the county on its books. The wood pasture common at Binswood (SU7637) is probably the pick. It’s a designated SSSI and a County Heritage Site. It was once part of the Woolmer Forest and was declared “folkland” by Henry II in 1134. By the end of the century King John took over the woodland for hunting deer and prevented its use for common grazing. The hill behind the wood still bears this unpopular monarch’s name. It was not until 1378 that Henry IV declared the woodland open to common grazing again. The larger trees here are mainly beech and oak, some pollarded. In the wetter areas of the grassland look for lousewort, and this is a good site for butterflies and insects.

Park Wood (SU6810) is a small area of semi-natural ancient woodland, which is a remnant of the Forest of Bere. You’ll find ancient yews here and other fine specimen trees, including two splendid oaks as you enter the wood. Look to for winter heliotrope, butcher’s broom and twayblade orchids. Otterbourne Park Wood (SU4522) is another designated area of ancient semi-natural woodland and another County Heritage Site. The village is mentioned in the Domesday book and in medieval times was split in two by Otterbourne Park. It was enclosed in 1253 and much of that woodland remains today. Look in particular for the very old twisted and gnarled oaks on a pebble bed to the north of the wood and for a well preserved Roman road. The woodland is good too for liverworts and ferns; yellow pimpernel and moschatel are amongst the ground flora. Upper Barn & Crowdhill Copses (SU4820) are believed to be ancient woodland sites which were once part of the Bishop of Winchester’s hunting park. Upper Barn Copse provides a lovely display of bluebells each spring. A sizeable population of roe deer reside in both copses. Valley Park Woods (SU4221) comprises four woods, Titlark Copse, Small Profits Wood, Knight Wood and Clothiers Copse. These were part of an area of ancient wood pasture, which has evolved into high forest. A number of mature trees - mainly oak and beech - can still be seen. Part of the Trust’s woodland creation scheme and in part designated as ancient semi-natural woodland, the old and new woods at Home Farm (SU6541) make for another site of particular interest, and Runnydown Copse (SU5618) is also worthy of mention.

We’ll turn our attention now to the local Wildlife Trust serving Hampshire and the Isle of Wight. It preserves some wonderful woodland sites. Take Crab Wood (SU4329), a designated Local Nature Reserve where the ancient woodland on chalk has benefited from traditional coppice management. You’ll find hazel coppice with oak and ash standards, plus wayfaring and aspen trees. Visit in spring for bluebells and solomon’s seal, and in summer for butterflies including silver-washed fritillaries. Pamber Forest (SU6160) is another LNR with ancient origins. It was once part of the Royal Forest of Windsor, used for hunting and for timber. The 479-acre site mainly comprises oak and birch woodland but there’s also heath, wood pasture and stream valleys to explore. It’s a good place for an autumn fungi foray. Look too for wild service trees, Star of Bethlehem flowers and butterflies including purple emperors and white admirals. Roydon Woods (SU3100) consists of ancient woodland, heaths, ponds, pastures and river. The woodland is mainly hazel coppice, but you’ll also find some very large oak and beech trees. If you’re fortunate, you may spot a roe, sika or fallow deer, or a pearl-bordered fritillary as it flutters past. More easy to spot are the new forest ponies and cattle which graze the grassland and heaths. Damselflies and demoiselles are numerous around the wetter areas, which are also home to insect-eating sundew plants. More than 150 lichens have been recorded here too.

The Trust’s Upper Inhams Copse (SU6161) adjacent to Pamber Forest is another ancient woodland site. With wet pasture as well as woodland, sphagnum moss and ferns dominate the ground flora in the wetter areas. Elsewhere you’ll find bluebells, yellow archangel and Solomon’s seal. Various butterflies including marbled tip, ringlet and skippers have been recorded here. Around the pond keep watch for grass snakes and damselflies. The Warren (SU7228) is ancient woodland located on a deep chalk slope. Yew and beech trees are notable here, and ransoms are common at ground level. This site is particularly important for red helleborines, one of four helleborines recorded here, and for rare snails like the mountain bulin snail. The Chase (SU4462) comprises alder woodland and conifer plantation, and is owned by the National Trust.

Now, let’s look at some other woodland sites in the county. Harewood Forest (SU4043) near Andover and Wherwell has ancient origins and is the largest such area in the county outside the New Forest. It’s thought to have been part of one of the royal forests in late Saxon times, a remnant of the ancient Savernake Forest in nearby Wiltshire. Records show that a royal enquiry permitted felling here in 1295, and in World War II it was used to store munitions. Today, it’s in private ownership, part of the Middleton Hall estate, and is used for game shooting. The Forest of Bere (SU5912) is another hunting forest from the Middle Ages. Today it’s managed by Forest Enterprise, and if you’re sharp-eyed, you may find one of the few ancient trees which remain here, especially along West Walk. It’s said that 40% of Hampshire people live within 10 miles of its centre yet few know of this woodland gem. This was once a Royal Medieval Forest and a source of timber for local products and of charcoal. Bark stripping was also a major activity in the 19th century, as it was needed for the tanning industry.

Telegraph Woods in Southampton is mixed woodland. The old wood bank at the end of the main path is the place to look for large oaks, beeches and yews. Roe deer live in the woods and feed in the nearby fields. The hilltop was once an Iron Age hillfort and later a beacon site in the 16th century. Ashford Hangars near Petersfield is a designated National Nature Reserve managed by the county council. It forms part of a wooded escarpment between the lower Weald and the Hampshire chalk plateau. Poet Edward Thomas lived here in the early 20th century. More than 300 acres of woodland and beech hangar can be found here, and the views are quite wonderful. The local scenery is so good that it’s known as Little Switzerland. Alice Holt at Bentley near Alton is managed by Forest Enterprise. This ancient woodland park is renowned for its oak trees, which once supplied timber for building navy ships. You’ll find waymarked walks and a forest visitor centre here. The forest was once owned by Aelfsige, Bishop of Winchester, and it’s thought that the name Alice refers to him. Norman kings subsequently turned it into a royal hunting forest. Look out for purple emperor butterflies – the forest symbol - and for roe deer.
 
A number of local authority country parks are also of interest. Queen Elizabeth Country Park is the county’s biggest, with 20 miles of trails and 1,400 acres of open access woodland and downland. Farley Mount Country Park near Winchester covers some 1,000 acres of downland and ancient woodland, and lies close to the aforementioned Crab Wood. The Clarendon Way runs through here, and in the area of a modern plantation there’s the site of an excavated Roman villa. Holly Hill Woodland Park, once the gardens of Holly Hill Mansion, comprises some 70 acres of woodland plus five acres of lakes. Located on the banks of the River Hamble, there are fine views, some very large oaks and numerous exotic trees. Itchen Valley Country Park near Southampton is a large area of woodland and water meadows, with waymarked trails and a visitor centre in the style of a 17th century Aisle Barn. Much of the ancient woodland here was felled in the 1960s, but about a third survived, and there are some fine oak standards in the woodland nature reserve. The Itchen Way runs nearby. Westwood Woodland Park (SU4409) covers some 180 acres of woodland and grassland, providing some fine views over Southampton Water.

Here’s a selection of other properties in the county which are worth a visit. Firstly, there’s The Old House in Silchester, which was built around 1700 and was until 1923 the local rectory. The approach to the house is lined with ancient oak trees, and the gardens include a 7-acre wood. Northington Grange (SU5636), which William Wilkins redesigned in a Greek Revival style in 1809, is encircled by a lovely landscaped park and was the setting for the film Eugene Onegin, which starred Ralph Fiennes. Hordle Walhampton School in Lymington is a manor house from the late 18th century. The grounds cover some 97 acres and are landscaped in the style of Capability Brown. A number of trees on the estate date back to the 19th century. Closewood House in Denmead includes 200 different specimen trees, including a large holm oak. Tylney Hall Hotel in Rotherwick dates from the late 19th century but the mature trees here, including some of the avenues and some of the park perimeter trees, have stood here much longer.

Finally, let’s have a look at a number of other interesting Hampshire gardens. In the New Forest, there’s the award winning woodland garden at Exbury on the banks of the Beaulieu River and the wooded Furzey Gardens near Minstead. Elsewhere in the county, the Sir Harold Hillier Gardens contain over 42,000 different plants, set over some 180 acres of countryside in a number of themed landscapes. More than 250 champion trees are to be found here. Houghton Lodge near Stockbridge is a Grade II* listed cottage dating from the 18th century and was used by the BBC for its adaptation of David Copperfield. Located on a hilltop, overlooking the River Test, there are lovely woodland and river walks. Conholt Park near Chute includes an arboretum, a woodland walk and a 115-metre long laurel maze, and lastly Mount Joy in Newbridge village includes an arboretum incorporating a provisional national collection of native sorbus trees.

If you know of other ancient trees in Hampshire or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on Kent, we’d love to hear from you!

Please email us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference. We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please email them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!