Focus on Buckinghamshire

Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

This month we turn our attention to Buckinghamshire, located to the north-west of London and part of the Home Counties. Known in the past as being an area steeped in dairy farming and traditional crafts such as furniture manufacturing and lace-making, today it can be easily overlooked by the casual visitor and tourist as being an extended commuter belt for the capital city.

This county is, however, a wonderfully rural and wooded part of England, with a marvellously varied landscape - from the Ouse Valley and Whittlewood Ridge in the north down to the Thames and Colne Valleys in the south. In between there are the famous chalk hills and valleys of the Chilterns, the Vale of Aylesbury, the Midvale Ridge and the Greensand Ridge.

These natural attractions are supplemented by some wonderful country parks, estates and historic gardens, especially to the south. Black Park and Langley Park are situated next to Pinewood Studios, and consequently they are regularly used as film sets. Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone is one of the most recent blockbusters to use Black Park. Other fine examples of Buckinghamshire parkland include Bulstrode, Langley Park, Colne Valley Park, Dorneywood, Denham Country Park, Cliveden, Stoke Park, Heatherden Hall and St Huberts.

Many such locations boast fine historic houses too, like Samuel Wyatt’s Dropmore, Edwin Lutyens’ Nashdom, William Burns’ Taplow Court and Sir Charles Barry’s Cliveden, plus Huntercombe Manor and Dorney Court manor house.

There are plenty of fine market towns and villages in the county too. Places to visit include the county town of Buckingham on the River Ouse; Amersham with its 17th century market hall; High Wycombe, renowned for its furniture-making; the bustling market town of Aylesbury; Beaconsfield which has no fewer than 130 listed buildings and the oldest model village in the world, Bekonscot; Gerrard’s Cross with its Italian-style church and popular shopping centre; Stoke Poges, best known for its association with Thomas Gray and for Stoke Park – now a golf club – which was landscaped by both Capability Brown and Humphrey Repton within the space of 20 years; and Burnham with its 13th century abbey. For something completely different, there’s Milton Keynes, the epitome of the modern “new” town and infamous for its cows!

So, where might you find some of Buckinghamshire’s finest ancient trees, ancient woodlands and other such treescapes?

English Nature has a number of interesting sites on its registers. Burnham Beeches (SU9585), a National Nature Reserve adjoining the National Trust’s Dorneywood, is widely regarded as one of the best examples of ancient woodland in Britain. The Corporation of London has controlled this area of common pasture woodland since 1880 to protect it from development, and half a million people now visit the 540 acres every year. Whether they appreciate that there’s the equivalent of one ancient beech or oak pollard here for every acre is another matter! Most of these marvellous trees are at least 400 years old. Incidentally, visitors here are in good company. It’s long been a favourite rendezvous for artists and poets, including Thomas Gray.

By comparison Whiteleaf Hill (SP8203) near Princes Risborough comprises just 27 acres of woodland and grassland, but it includes three ancient barrows, a chalk figure and numerous other historical features. This Local Nature Reserve includes ancient semi-natural woodland between the car-park and the Neolithic barrow, as well as secondary woodland and a beech plantation. Northmoor Hill Woods (TQ0389) is another Local Nature Reserve near Denham (and the busy aerodrome there!), and it features both coppice and wetland areas.

The National Trust manages several interesting properties in Buckinghamshire, most notably Stowe (SP6636). The 250-acre landscape garden is considered to be one of Europe’s most influential, inspiring writers, artists, politicians and nature lovers since the 18th century. More landscape than gardens, the grounds brilliantly combine pasture, wooded valleys, lakes, temples and monuments, whilst a school now resides within the palatial Stowe House. A further 750 acres of medieval deer-park surround the house and grounds. Look here for the small number of surviving ancient oaks and enjoy a quite breathtaking day out!

The woodland and riverside walks at Cliveden (SU9185) are also well worth a visit. This NT estate, covering some 300 acres, comprises a series of interesting gardens and overlooks the River Thames at Cliveden Reach, which is generally considered to be one of the most beautiful wooded stretches along the river. The original house was built in the 17th century and was home to various earls and dukes, including the Duke of Westminster, and the Astor family. The current house (the third here) was designed by Sir Charles Barry for the Duke of Sutherland in the mid-1850s, was once home to Lady Astor and is now a hotel. Don’t miss the yew tree walk!

There are more wonderful woodland and parkland walks in the NT grounds of Hughenden Manor (SU8695), which was the once home of Victorian Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli. Indeed, the current gardens are a re-working of those designed by his wife, Mary Anne. Bradenham Village (SU8297) is a pretty village located in the Chiltern Hills, with a noteworthy church and a private 17th century manor house. Walkers head here to enjoy the network of paths that lead to the surrounding Chiltern countryside of hills, farmland and beech woodland.

From Bradenham you can access the common pasture-woodland of Bradenham Woods and Naphill Common (SU8497), which is noted for its remaining ancient oaks and beech pollards. These woods are especially popular with photographers seeking super displays of autumn colour.

The BBOWT (Berks, Bucks and Oxon Wildlife Trust) also manages a number of interesting properties. Here are six of the best. Near Murcott you’ll find the wide grassy rides of Whitecross Green Wood (SP6014) which was largely felled in the 1960s and planted with conifers. These are now being cleared and the age-old practice of coppicing is being reintroduced. There are some fine examples of oak and ash standards here, and keep a watchful eye for rare black and brown hairstreak butterflies in the bordering lane. Rushbeds Wood (SP6715), just over a mile from Ludgershall, comprises ancient woodland, meadows and hedgerows. This remnant of the Royal Forest of Bernwood is known locally for its abundance of wild flowers and butterflies. For centuries this woodland was coppiced, and today you’ll find ash, field maple, hazel, oak and spindle trees. Bluebells and primroses provide a splendid display in spring, whilst the summer sees thousands of ox-eye daisies standing tall in the meadows. Look out too for orchids, including greater butterfly orchids, twayblades and violet helleborines.

Bordering the River Ray, Finemere Wood (SP7221), to the south-east of Edgcott, is a lovely mixture of ancient coppice woodland, mixed woodland, ponds and scrubland. In the large coppice area, you’ll see oak standards which have stood here for many decades. This is another good site for bluebells and primroses, and in the summer look for purple emperor, black hairstreak and white admiral butterflies. Muntjac deer skulk in the undergrowth, and at the top end try to spot the wild service trees in the predominantly ash woodland. There are some fine views over the Vale of Aylesbury from Chinnor Hill (SP7600), a reserve consisting of open beech woodland with some oak and ash. Here you’ll see two ancient sunken ways which were used in years past to move livestock, wood and other produce. The Upper Icknield Way (the Ridgeway) runs along the grassland at the bottom of the site.

Set amongst the arable fields near Haversham is Little Linford Wood (SP8345). This was cleared a century ago but tall oaks and ash trees still dominate the older parts. The bottom end of the reserve gives a much better impression of ancient woodland though, where incredibly thick honeysuckle is to be found clambering up the sturdiest trees. Look for the few remaining elm trees here too. As you wander around, note the dormouse boxes, in some of which hornets have now taken up residence, and keep an eye out for the rare wood white butterfly. Don’t forget to look up too, to see the numerous buzzards soar and ride the thermals. The quaintly named Dancersend (SP8909) is hidden away in the valleys of the Chilterns and consists of chalk grassland and mixed woodland. Much of the ancient woodland was felled during World War II, but in the 1950s replanting took place with oak, ash, wild cherry and beech. Look here for ancient woodland indicators like Solomon’s-seal and stinking hellebore, and keep your eyes open for muntjac, roe and fallow deer. The mature beech woodland shelters the unusual yellow bird’s-nest flower and delicate fly orchids. In the grassland, you may see the scarce Duke of Burgundy butterfly, and - take note - this is the county’s only location where you’ll find wood vetch.

The Woodland Trust led a high profile campaign in the late 1990s to save the common pasture woodland at Penn Wood (SU9195) from being redeveloped into a golf course. This is a large area (436 acres) of mixed woodland next to Penn Street village and is located within the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. You’ll see some wonderful trees in this wood, including several ancient beech trees. The eagle-eyed may also spot the last remaining ancient oak. Pepperboxes Wood (SP8602) is located in the Chequers Valley near Great Missenden and was once part of the Hampden Estate. Nearby Hampden House was once home to John Hampden, Oliver Cromwell’s cousin who famously opposed the Ship Tax and triggered the Civil War. The WT woodland here is part of the Chilterns AONB and consists mainly of beech but look out too for hornbeam and wild service trees. Owned by the du Bois family in the Middle Ages,

The Trust’s Chesham Bois Wood (SP9600) is made up of four woods, Hilbury Wood, Elvidge Wood, Hodds Wood and Little Hodds Wood. Again typical of the Chilterns, this semi-natural ancient woodland is dominated by beech. Located at Marlow near the River Thames, Pullingshill Wood and Marlow Common (SU8286) collectively cover some 62 acres within the Chilterns AONB. Pullingshill Wood is semi-natural ancient Chiltern beech high woodland, most of which is a registered SSSI because of its superb ground flora. This includes ancient woodland indicators such as wood barley, lesser wintergreen, broadleaved helleborine and wood melick. Marlow Common used to be open common land but is now wooded. Some of the alder trees here are more than 100 years old. Incidentally, make sure that you take note of the unusual cathedral effect provided by the trees bordering the road which separates these two WT woods.

Here are a few other ancient woodland sites in the county, which are managed by the Woodland Trust and are well worth a visit: Round Wood (SP6531) near Tingewick; the 129-acre College Wood (SP7933) near Nash; Cowcroft Wood (SP9801) near Chesham, which is in the Chilterns AONB and is registered as a Local Nature Reserve; Adams Wood (SU7890) near Frieth, Munces Wood (SU8489) near Marlow Bottom and Philipshill Wood (TQ0194) near Chorleywood, all of which are also in the Chilterns AONB; and the strangely named Gomm’s and Bubbles (SU8697) in the Hughenden Valley AONB near Cryer’s Hill.

There are two municipal country parks which definitely should not be overlooked. Firstly, there’s the historic medieval parkland at Langley Park (TQ0182), where you would have once found some huge deer herds. This royal manor has been administered by numerous monarchs since the 13th century. As well as the walled arboretum and Temple Gardens, you’ll find some fine examples here of veteran oak and lime trees. Don’t forget to cross the main road (A412) and check out the extensive walks at nearby Black Park too. This park centres on a 13-acre lake and is set within some 530 acres of woodland, grassland and heathland. Here you’ll find waterside and cinematic trails too, the latter highlighting areas of parkland used in well-known films.

The Forestry Commission manages three particularly noteworthy treescapes. Firstly, there’s Wendover Woods (SP8810) near Wendover, comprising mixed conifer and broad-leaved woodland to the north of the Chiltern escarpment. Look carefully here amongst the conifers for the elusive firecrest. Secondly, there’s Cowleaze Woods near Stokenchurch, which is not only a great place from which to see red kites but is also a fascinating outdoor sculpture gallery. Thirdly, there’s Leygrove (SU7892) near Cadmore End, where you’ll find carpets of bluebells in springtime and if fortunate, where you may spy a roe or muntjac deer.

Now, here’s a selection of the best of the rest in Buckinghamshire. Near to the aforementioned Penn Wood is Common Wood (SU9194), an area of around 250 acres of ancient woodland, which was once common pasture land. For over a thousand years, it formed the southern aspect of Wycombe Heath, along with Penn Wood, St Johns Wood and King’s Wood. This was a 4,000-acre area of woodland and heathland, which was used as a hunting chase in the Middle Ages. Look here for some fine beech trees dating back some 200 years, when beech was in great demand with local furniture makers. Bulstrode Park, a listed English Heritage site near Gerrard’s Cross, was a deer-park in the Middle Ages and covers some 400 acres. Around two dozen ancient trees have survived here, including some splendid oaks, an ash tree and a large hollow beech. These may be seen from local public footpaths. The original house - home to Judge Jeffreys - was demolished and replaced by the current mansion in the late 19th century. One corner of the park holds quite probably the county’s largest site relating to an ancient British encampment.

As you follow the public footpaths across Booker Common, see if you can spot any of the few remaining ancient beech, oak and field maple trees, and keep a sharp eye out for red kites, as they have recently been reintroduced to Booker and the surrounding area. Wotton House (SP6816) is a private residence, where a small number of ancient oaks and hornbeam survive on what was once part of Bernwood Forest. In the 19th century the parish of Wotton Underwood covered around 3,200 acres, of which 800 were woodland. Finally, the Colne Valley Regional Park covers some 43 miles to the west of London. The area between the M40 and M4 includes large sections of woodland, many of which include fine historic parkland trees.

You may also be interested to know that the Bernwood Ancient Hunting Forest Project was launched in 2001 with a view to promoting the protection and enhancement of the county’s former royal forest, as well as increasing general awareness and appreciation of the woodland that has survived. The project focused upon a 400-square kilometre area which was listed in 12th century records at a time when Henry II was king. You’ll find details of the project in most main libraries.

If you know of other ancient trees in Buckinghamshire or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on Dorset, we’d love to hear from you!
Please e-mail us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference. We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please e-mail them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!

If you know of other ancient trees in Buckinghamshire or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on Dorset, we’d love to hear from you!

Please e-mail us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference. We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please e-mail them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!